Description: Death Trooper
Prefix: TK
Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment
Context: Star Wars Expanded Universe
The Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust.

Please note that this particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. This is not recommended as a primary Legion membership costume. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence: Expert Infantryman and Centurion. In the page below, requirements for Expert Infantryman are listed in blue. Centurion requirements are in red. Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

Special Notes:

• Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper costume.
• Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.
• The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), or HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene).

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .

• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look. If any large areas are missing from the helmet and skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
• Should have stains to emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
• Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
• Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
• Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
• The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
• Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
• Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
• Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
• Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
• Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
• Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
• Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
• Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications.
  

• Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.
• Neck Seal shall be destressed/worn.
  

• These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
• No visible rivets are allowed.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
• May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• One Shoulder Strap maybe omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both) If a Shoulder Strap is omitted, then it should be replaced/tied with *Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.
  

• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• These shall free float in back.
• These shall be glued in front.
• The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

• One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May have some stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint

• Biceps are fully closed.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• One bicep may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
• May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• Forearms are fully closed.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Should have some stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• One Hand Plate may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
• May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Should have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
• Gloves shall be distressed/worn. If any skin is exposed it shall be covered with a zombie-like prosthetic skin.
  

• Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

• Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Should have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
• Chest plate may have one of the top corner/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damage/remove this area of the chest plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.
• May have blaster wounds.
  

• Shall have stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• Back plate contains a "O II" design.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May have a few stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
• Back plate may have one of the top corners/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damage/remove this area of the back plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.

• Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.
• Under Suit shall be distressed/worn.
  

• The under suit may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
• Some area of the Under Suit should have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages.

• The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Should have stains that emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
• Should be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed.
• Shall have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Shall be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
• The ab plate may have large missing/broken off area/areas. If any large area is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.

• It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Should be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.
• Shall be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, the heads should be approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Note: For the original used TK armor, this type of rivets where, bifurcated rivets or split rivet.

• It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.
• Shall be an aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

• Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
• Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3”(75mm) to 3.5” (90mm) wide. The color is be white to off-white.
• The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
• Belt shall be canvas or canvas covered, and shall have a distressed old look. leather and vinyl are not acceptable.
• There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.
• One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both). If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from shall be ripped/torn.

• Attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2”(50mm) and 2.5" (64mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
• The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Should have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.
• The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

• Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
• The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Should have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
• Shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Should be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  

• Should have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
• Shall be aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

• There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below.

• Holster may be omitted from this costume.
• Made of black leather or leather-like material.
• Holster shall be distressed/worn.
  

• If using the holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
• If using the holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

• It is optional to have some Worn/old looking (mummy style) bandages. The mummy style bandages may be wrapped loosely around some areas of the costume, but not over 30%.
  

• May be a latex or latex like Halloween mask, hands or body parts.
  

• Shall be profressional movie-like makeup

• Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
  

• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• No ammo counter shall be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Correct style scope.
• No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
• Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel shall be covered).
• If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, you shall grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all).
• Correct greeblies on the left rear area shall be present (door catch and two "hammers").

• Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.
  

• A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.