(Difference between revisions)
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*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
-
*May have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
+
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.  
*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.  
*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.  
*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.  
Line 51: Line 51:
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
-
*May have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
+
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
*No visible rivets are allowed.
*No visible rivets are allowed.
Line 64: Line 64:
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
-
*May have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
+
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. |
*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. |
*Shoulder bells shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Shoulder bells shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
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{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Biceps|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Biceps|
-
*Biceps are fully closed.
+
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
-
*Biceps should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
-
*Biceps may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).  
+
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
-
*Biceps may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.|
+
*Biceps are fully closed. |
*Biceps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Biceps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Biceps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
*Biceps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
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{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Forearms|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Forearms|
-
*Forearms are fully closed.
+
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
-
*Forearms should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
-
*Forearms may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).  
+
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
-
*Forearms may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.|
+
*Forearms are fully closed. |
*Forearms shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Forearms shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Forearms may have missing/broken off areas. If the missing/broken off areas are large, there should be a rotting corpse/flesh eaten look behind it (rotting corpse/flesh eaten area may be made of latex or latex-like material).|
*Forearms may have missing/broken off areas. If the missing/broken off areas are large, there should be a rotting corpse/flesh eaten look behind it (rotting corpse/flesh eaten area may be made of latex or latex-like material).|
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{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Hand Plates|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Hand Plates|
-
*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
+
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
-
*Hand plates should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
-
*Hand Plates may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
+
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
-
*Hand plates may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.|
+
*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. |
*Hand plates shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Hand plates shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Hand plates shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
*Hand plates shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-chest.jpg|Chest|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-chest.jpg|Chest|
-
*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.
+
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
-
*Chest plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
-
*Chest plate may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).  
+
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
-
*Chest plate may have a few blaster wounds.
+
*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.|
-
*Chest plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.|
+
*Chest plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Chest plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
*Chest plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
*Chest plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.

Revision as of 00:11, 27 September 2011

crlblackhd.gif
Death Trooper
Missingprofile.jpg
Model Model, Photo by Photographer


FISD.png

Description: Death Trooper
Prefix: TK
Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment
Context: Star Wars Expanded Universe
The Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust. Please note that this particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.


The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence: Expert Infantryman and Centurion. In the page below, requirements for Expert Infantryman are listed in blue. Centurion requirements are in red. Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

Special Notes:

  • Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper costume.
  • Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.
  • The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
  • FX armor may not be used for Level 3/Centurion approval.


  • This CRL is a work in progress.
  • While this costume must be approved by the Legion Membership Officer, submissions should still go to the local GML, who will post the application in the appropriate section of the Legion forum.
  • If you have this costume and would like to assist with this CRL, please contact your detachment leader!
  • Please note that the use of the word "should" below does not indicate that a requirement is optional. All instances of should will be replaced with must as this guide is completed.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .


TK deathtrooper helmet.jpg Helmet
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
  • Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
  • The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
  • Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
  • Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
  • Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
  • Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Helmet shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Helmet shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • Helmet should have large, missing/broken off areas. If helmet has large, missing/broken off areas, any exposed skin shall be disguised with zombie-like prosthetic/mask.
  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
  • Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.
  • Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details.
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
  • FX helmets are not allowed.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
  • ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
  • Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).

TK anh stunt neckseal.jpeg Neck Seal
For 501st approval:
  • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Neck Seal shall be destressed/worn.
  • Neck Seal may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic/mask. .

For level three certification (if applicable):
Blankwhite.gif Shoulder Straps
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
  • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
  • No visible rivets are allowed.
  • Shoulder straps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Shoulder straps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • One Shoulder Strap maybe omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both) If a Shoulder Strap is removed, then it should be replaced/tied with *Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • These shall free float in back.
  • These shall be glued in front.
  • The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.
For level three certification (if applicable):
{{{5}}}
Blankwhite.gif Shoulder Bells
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
  • One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Shoulder bells shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Shoulder bells shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level three certification (if applicable):

Blankwhite.gif Biceps
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
  • Biceps are fully closed.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Biceps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Biceps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • One bicep may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
For level three certification (if applicable):

Blankwhite.gif Forearms
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
  • Forearms are fully closed.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Forearms shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Forearms may have missing/broken off areas. If the missing/broken off areas are large, there should be a rotting corpse/flesh eaten look behind it (rotting corpse/flesh eaten area may be made of latex or latex-like material).
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

Blankwhite.gif Hand Plates
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
  • Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Hand plates shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Hand plates shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • One Hand Plate may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.

TK anh stunt gloves.jpeg Gloves
For 501st approval:
  • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.
TK deathtrooper-chest.jpg Chest
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
  • Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Chest plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Chest plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • Chest plate shall have blood stains and/or coagulated blood /splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
  • Chest plate may have one of the top corner/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damaged/remove this area of the chest plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

TK deathtrooper back.jpg Back
For 501st approval:
  • Back plate contains a "O II" design.
  • Back plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Back plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • Back plate may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood /splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Back plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Back plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed tint to some areas.
  • Back plate may have one of the top corners/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damaged/remove this area of the back plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

TK anh stunt undersuit.jpeg Under Suit
For 501st approval:
  • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Under Suit shall be distressed/worn.
  • The under suit may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If there are any rips/missing areas in the under suit with any exposed skin, the skin shall be disguised as a rotting corpse/flesh eaten look (rotting corpse/flesh eaten area may be made of latex or latex-like material).
  • Some area of the Under Suit should have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages.

For level three certification (if applicable):
Blankwhite.gif Abdomen Plate
For 501st approval:
  • The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter.
  • The ab plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • The ab plate may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
  • The ab plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed .
  • The ab plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • The ab plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • The ab plate may have large missing/broken off area/areas. If the ab plate has large missing/broken off area/areas, there shall be a rotting corpse/flesh eaten look in these exposed areas (rotting corpse/flesh eaten area may be made of latex or latex-like material).
  • The ab plate shall have blood stains and/or coagulated blood /splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.
  • Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.
  • A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.
  • A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

Blankwhite.gif Kidney Plate
For 501st approval:
  • It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.
  • Kidney plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Kidney plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.
  • Kidney plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Kidney plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • 3 rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.

Blankwhite.gif Butt Plate
For 501st approval:
  • It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.
  • Butt plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Butt plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.
  • Butt plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Butt plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

Blankwhite.gif Belt
For 501st approval:
  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3” to 3.5” wide. The color is be white to off-white.
  • The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
  • Belt face should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Belt face may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
  • Belt face may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Belt face shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Belt face shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas
  • Belt shall be canvas or canvas covered, and shall have a distressed old look. leather and vinyl are not acceptable.
  • There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt..
  • One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both). If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from shall be ripped/torn.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Drop boxes are closed in the back.
  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.

Blankwhite.gif Thermal Detonator
For 501st approval:
  • Attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2” and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.
  • Thermal Detonator should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Thermal Detonator may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Thermal Detonator shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Thermal Detonator shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.
For level three certification (if applicable):

TK deathtrooper thighs.jpg Thighs
For 501st approval:
  • Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
  • The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
  • Thighs should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Thighs should have some green-ish old yellowed tint to some areas.
  • Thighs may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Thighs shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Thighs shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.
Blankwhite.gif Lower Legs
For 501st approval:
  • Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
  • Greaves should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Greaves may have some green-ish old yellowed tint to some areas.
  • Greaves may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Greaves shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Greaves shall have some green-ish old yellowed tint to some areas.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • There should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.

TK deathtrooper boots.jpg Boots
For 501st approval:
  • White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
  • Boots should be distressed/worn.
  • Boots should have some green-ish old yellowed tint to some areas.
  • Boots may have some coagualted blood splatter (coagualted blood splatter may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Boots shall be distressed/worn.
  • Boots shall have some green-ish old yellowed tint to some areas.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).


Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below.

TK anh stunt holster.jpeg Holster
For 501st approval:
  • Made of black leather or leather-like material.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
  • The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.
For level three certification (if applicable):


TK anh stunt e11.jpeg BlasTech E-11
For 501st approval:
  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Folding stock (does not need to function).
  • A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Correct style scope.
  • Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
  • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
  • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.
  • No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
TK anh stunt dlt19.jpeg BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle
For 501st approval:
  • Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.
For level three certification (if applicable):
Personal tools
The 501st Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While it is not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred Imperial costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © & ™ Lucasfilm Ltd. All rights reserved. Used under authorization.