Description: Death Trooper
Prefix: TK
Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment
Context: Star Wars Expanded Universe
The Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust. Please note that this particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence: Expert Infantryman and Centurion. In the page below, requirements for Expert Infantryman are listed in blue. Centurion requirements are in red. Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

Special Notes:

• Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper costume.
• Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.
• The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), or HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene).

• This CRL is a work in progress.
• While this costume must be approved by the Legion Membership Officer, submissions should still go to the local GML, who will post the application in the appropriate section of the Legion forum.
• If you have this costume and would like to assist with this CRL, please contact your detachment leader!
• Please note that the use of the word "should" below does not indicate that a requirement is optional. All instances of should will be replaced with must as this guide is completed.

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .

• Helmet should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Helmet shall have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use the liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
• Helmet may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
• Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
• Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
• The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
• Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
• Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
• Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
• Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
• Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
• Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
• Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
  

• Helmet shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Helmet shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• Helmet should have large, missing/broken off areas. If helmet has large, missing/broken off areas, any exposed skin shall be disguised with zombie-like prosthetic/mask.
• Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
• Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.
• Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details.
• Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
• FX helmets are not allowed.

• Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.
  

• These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
• Shoulder straps should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Helmet shall have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
• Shoulder straps may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• No visible rivets are allowed.
• Shoulder straps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Shoulder straps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• One Shoulder Strap maybe omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both) If a Shoulder Strap is removed, then it should be replaced/tied with *Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.

• These shall free float in back.
• These shall be glued in front.
• The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

• One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.
• Shoulder bells should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Shoulder bells may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
• Shoulder bells may have some green-ish old yellowed tint grimy to some areas.
  

• Shoulder bells shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Shoulder bells shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.

• Biceps are fully closed.
• Biceps should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Biceps may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
• Biceps may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• Biceps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Biceps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• One bicep may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).

• Forearms are fully closed.
• Forearms should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Forearms may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
• Forearms may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• Forearms shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Forearms may have missing/broken off areas. If the missing/broken off areas are large, there should be a rotting corpse/flesh eaten look behind it (rotting corpse/flesh eaten area may be made of latex or latex-like material).

• Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
• Hand plates should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Hand Plates may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
• Hand plates may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• Hand plates shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Hand plates shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• One Hand Plate may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).

• Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
  

• Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

• Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.
• Chest plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Chest plate may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
• Chest plate may have a few blaster wounds.
• Chest plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• Chest plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Chest plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• Chest plate shall have blood stains and/or coagulated blood /splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
• Chest plate may have one of the top corner/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damaged/remove this area of the chest plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.

• Back plate contains a "O II" design.
• Back plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Back plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• Back plate may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood /splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
  

• Back plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Back plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed tint to some areas.
• Back plate may have one of the top corners/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damaged/remove this area of the back plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.

• Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.
  

• The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter.
• The ab plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• The ab plate may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
• The ab plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed .
• The ab plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• The ab plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• The ab plate may have large missing/broken off area/areas. If the ab plate has large missing/broken off area/areas, there shall be a rotting corpse/flesh eaten look in these exposed areas (rotting corpse/flesh eaten area may be made of latex or latex-like material).
• The ab plate shall have blood stains and/or coagulated blood /splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).

• It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.
• Kidney plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Kidney plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.
• Kidney plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Kidney plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.

• It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.
• Butt plate should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Butt plate may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.
• Butt plate shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Butt plate shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.

• Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
• Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3” to 3.5” wide. The color is be white to off-white.
• The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
• Belt face should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Belt face may have blood stains and/or coagulated blood/splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood).
• Belt face may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• Belt face shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Belt face shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas
• Belt shall be canvas or canvas covered, and shall have a distressed old look. leather and vinyl are not acceptable.
• There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt..
• One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both). If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from shall be ripped/torn.

• Attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2” and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.
• Thermal Detonator should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Thermal Detonator may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  

• Thermal Detonator shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• Thermal Detonator shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
• The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.

• Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
• Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
• The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
  

• The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.
• The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

• Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
• Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
  

• Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.

• Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
• May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
• White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
  

• There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).
• Boots shall be lightly scuffed.

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below.

• Made of black leather or leather-like material.
  

• Holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
• The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

• Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
  

• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Correct style scope.
• Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
• Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
• If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.
• No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.

• Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

• Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.
  

• A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.