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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_helmet.jpg|Helmet|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_helmet.jpg|Helmet|
-
*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
+
 
 +
*Helmet should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
*Helmet shall have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use the liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
 +
*Helmet may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
 +
*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.  
*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.  
*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.  
*Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.  
*Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.  
-
*The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
+
*The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.  
-
*Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
+
*Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.  
-
*Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
+
*Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.  
*Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.  
*Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.  
-
*Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
+
*Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.  
-
*Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
+
*Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.  
-
*Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
+
*Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.  
*Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.|
*Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.|
-
*Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
+
*Helmet shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
-
*Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.
+
*Helmet shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
 +
*Helmet should have large, missing/broken off areas. If helmet has large, missing/broken off areas, any exposed skin shall be disguised with zombie-like prosthetic/mask.
 +
*Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.  
 +
*Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.  
*Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details.  
*Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details.  
*Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.  
*Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.  
-
*FX helmets are not allowed.|
+
*FX helmets are not allowed. |
-
*MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
+
*MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.  
-
*ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
+
*ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.  
-
*Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
+
*Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).  
-
*Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
+
*Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.  
-
*Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).  }}
+
*Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).  
 +
 
 +
  }}
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_neckseal.jpeg|Neck Seal|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_neckseal.jpeg|Neck Seal|
-
*Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.| | }}
+
*Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.|
 +
*Neck Seal shall be destressed/worn.
 +
*Neck Seal may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic/mask. .
 +
| }}
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Shoulder Straps|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Shoulder Straps|
-
*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.|  
+
*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
-
*No visible rivets are allowed.|
+
*Shoulder straps should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
-
*These shall free float in back.
+
*Helmet shall have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
-
*These shall be glued in front.
+
*Shoulder straps may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.|
-
*The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.}}
+
*No visible rivets are allowed.
 +
*Shoulder straps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
*Shoulder straps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
 +
*One Shoulder Strap maybe omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both) If a Shoulder Strap is removed, then it should be replaced/tied with *Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.|
 +
*These shall free float in back.  
 +
*These shall be glued in front.  
 +
*The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.  
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Shoulder Bells|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Shoulder Bells|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.| | }}
*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.| | }}
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Biceps|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Biceps|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*Biceps are fully closed.| |}}
*Biceps are fully closed.| |}}
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Forearms|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Forearms|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*Forearms are fully closed.| |  
*Forearms are fully closed.| |  
*No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.}}
*No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.}}
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Hand Plates|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Hand Plates|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.| |
*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.| |
*Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.}}
*Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.}}
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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-chest.jpg|Chest|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-chest.jpg|Chest|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.| |
*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.| |
*Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.}}
*Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.}}
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-back.jpg|Back|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-back.jpg|Back|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*Back plate contains a "O II" design.| |
*Back plate contains a "O II" design.| |
*Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.}}
*Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.}}
Line 73: Line 103:
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Abdomen Plate|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Abdomen Plate|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. |
*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. |
*Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed . |
*Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed . |
Line 82: Line 114:
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Kidney Plate|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Kidney Plate|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.|
*It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.|
*A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.|
*A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.|
Line 88: Line 122:
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Butt Plate|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Butt Plate|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.|
*It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.|
*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.|
*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.|
Line 94: Line 130:
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Belt|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Belt|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
*Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3” to 3.5” wide. The color is be white to off-white.
*Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3” to 3.5” wide. The color is be white to off-white.
Line 103: Line 141:
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Thermal Detonator|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Thermal Detonator|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*(a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2” and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.|
*(a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2” and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.|
*The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint..| }}
*The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint..| }}
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_thighs.jpg|Thighs|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_thighs.jpg|Thighs|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
*Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
*The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.| |
*The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.| |
Line 113: Line 155:
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Lower Legs|
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Lower Legs|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.| |
*Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.| |
*Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.}}
*Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.}}
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_boots.jpg|Boots|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_boots.jpg|Boots|
 +
* Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
* May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.| |
*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.| |
*There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).
*There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).
*Boots shall be lightly scuffed.}}
*Boots shall be lightly scuffed.}}
 +
 +
 +
{{CRLaccessories}}
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|
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*The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.| }}
*The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.| }}
-
{{CRLaccessories}}
 
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_e11.jpeg|BlasTech E-11|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_e11.jpeg|BlasTech E-11|

Revision as of 23:45, 26 September 2011

crlblackhd.gif
Death Trooper
Missingprofile.jpg
Model Model, Photo by Photographer


FISD.png

Description: Death Trooper
Prefix: TK
Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment
Context: Star Wars Expanded Universe
The Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust. Please note that this particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.


The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for Level 1 "Expert Infantryman" are listed in blue. Requirements for Level 2 "Centurion" are listed in red. Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

Special Notes:

  • Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper costume.
  • Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.
  • The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
  • FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval.

  • This CRL is a work in progress.
  • As such, this costume must be approved by the Legion Membership Officer, via the appropriate section of the Legion forum.
  • If you have this costume and would like to assist with the completion of this library entry, please contact your detachment leader.
  • Please note that the use of the word "should" below does not indicate that the armor piece is considered open to interpretation. All instances of "should be" and "should have" will be replaced with "is" and "has", as this guide is completed.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.


TK deathtrooper helmet.jpg Helmet
For 501st approval:
  • Helmet should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Helmet shall have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use the liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • Helmet may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
  • Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
  • The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
  • Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
  • Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
  • Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
  • Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Helmet shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Helmet shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • Helmet should have large, missing/broken off areas. If helmet has large, missing/broken off areas, any exposed skin shall be disguised with zombie-like prosthetic/mask.
  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
  • Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.
  • Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details.
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
  • FX helmets are not allowed.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
  • ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
  • Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).

TK anh stunt neckseal.jpeg Neck Seal
For 501st approval:
  • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Neck Seal shall be destressed/worn.
  • Neck Seal may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic/mask. .

For level three certification (if applicable):

{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Shoulder Straps|

  • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
  • Shoulder straps should have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Helmet shall have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • Shoulder straps may have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.|
  • No visible rivets are allowed.
  • Shoulder straps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • Shoulder straps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
  • One Shoulder Strap maybe omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both) If a Shoulder Strap is removed, then it should be replaced/tied with *Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.|
  • These shall free float in back.
  • These shall be glued in front.
  • The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.
Blankwhite.gif Shoulder Bells
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
Blankwhite.gif Biceps
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • Biceps are fully closed.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
Blankwhite.gif Forearms
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • Forearms are fully closed.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.
Blankwhite.gif Hand Plates
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.
TK anh stunt gloves.jpeg Gloves
For 501st approval:
  • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.
TK deathtrooper-chest.jpg Chest
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.
150px Back
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • Back plate contains a "O II" design.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.
TK anh stunt undersuit.jpeg Under Suit
For 501st approval:
  • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
Blankwhite.gif Abdomen Plate
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed .
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.
  • Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.
  • A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.
  • A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.

Blankwhite.gif Kidney Plate
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • 3 rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.

Blankwhite.gif Butt Plate
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.

Blankwhite.gif Belt
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3” to 3.5” wide. The color is be white to off-white.
  • The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Belt shall be canvas or canvas covered, leather and vinyl are not acceptable.
  • There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt..
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Drop boxes are closed in the back.
  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.
Blankwhite.gif Thermal Detonator
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2” and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint..
For level three certification (if applicable):
TK deathtrooper thighs.jpg Thighs
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
  • The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.
Blankwhite.gif Lower Legs
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Ideally there should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.
TK deathtrooper boots.jpg Boots
For 501st approval:
  • Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May be yellowed with age, and may contain greenish mold-like weathering.
  • White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
For level two certification (if applicable):
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).
  • Boots shall be lightly scuffed.


Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below.

TK anh stunt holster.jpeg Holster
For 501st approval:
  • Made of black leather or leather-like material.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
  • The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.
For level three certification (if applicable):


TK anh stunt e11.jpeg BlasTech E-11
For 501st approval:
  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Folding stock (does not need to function).
  • A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Correct style scope.
  • Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
  • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
  • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.
  • No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
TK anh stunt dlt19.jpeg BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle
For 501st approval:
  • Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.
For level three certification (if applicable):
Personal tools
The 501st Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While it is not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred Imperial costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © & ™ Lucasfilm Ltd. All rights reserved. Used under authorization.