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{{CRLheader|Death Trooper|File:Missingprofile.jpg|Model|Photographer}}
+
{{CRLheader|Death Trooper|File:deathtrooper_full.jpg|TK-5940|Tom Gardner }}
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{{CRLdetinfo|1116|Death Trooper|TK|Star Wars Expanded Universe|The Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust. Please note that this particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.}}
+
{{CRLdetinfo|1116|Death Trooper|TK|Star Wars: Expanded Universe|
 +
 
 +
The Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust.  
 +
 
 +
Please note:  This particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. This is not recommended as a primary Legion membership costume. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.}}
{{CRLfisdlevels}}
{{CRLfisdlevels}}
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{{CRLwiplmoapproval}}
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{{CRLlmoapproval}}
{{CRLrequirements}}
{{CRLrequirements}}
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{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_helmet.jpg|Helmet|
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_helmet.jpg|Helmet|
 +
*Armor have a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
 +
**If any large areas are missing from the helmet and skin is exposed, it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
 +
*Armor has some stains to emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
 +
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
 +
*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
 +
*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
 +
*Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
 +
*The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline.
 +
**Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
 +
*Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
 +
*Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
 +
*Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
 +
*Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
 +
*Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
 +
*Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
 +
*Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
 +
*Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications. |
 +
*Armor has stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
 +
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
 +
*Ears have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar, and one at the base of the helmet.
 +
*Ear bars have four bumps only, not three.
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*Traps/ tears and tube stripes have the correct ANH TK details.
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*Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
 +
*FX helmets are not allowed.|
 +
*MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
 +
*ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
 +
*Ear bars have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).
 +
*Neck trim is of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
 +
*Tears/traps are hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).}}
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:Deathtrooper_neckseal.jpg|Neck Seal|
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*Neck Seal is distressed/ worn.|
-
*Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
+
*Neck Seal may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic/ mask.|}}
-
*Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
+
-
*Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
+
-
*The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
+
-
*Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
+
-
*Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
+
-
*Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
+
-
*Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
+
-
*Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
+
-
*Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.  
+
-
*Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.|
+
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
-
*Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.  
+
-
*Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.
+
-
*Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details.
+
-
*Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
+
-
*FX helmets are not allowed. |
+
-
*MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
+
-
*ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
+
-
*Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
+
-
*Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
+
-
*Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
+
-
}}
+
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:TK_anh_stunt_undersuit.jpeg|Under Suit|
 +
*Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.
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*Under Suit is distressed/ worn.|
 +
*The under suit may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
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*Some areas of the Under Suit have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages.|}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_neckseal.jpeg|Neck Seal|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_shoulder_straps.jpg|Shoulder Straps|
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*Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.|
+
*Straps are securely mounted in front and may free float in back.
-
*Neck Seal shall be destressed/worn.
+
*They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
-
*Neck Seal may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic/mask.
+
-
| }}
+
-
 
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Shoulder Straps|
+
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
-
*These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
+
*No visible rivets are allowed.
*No visible rivets are allowed.
-
*Shoulder straps shall have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Straps have a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*Shoulder straps shall have some green-ish old yellowed grimy tint to some areas.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
-
*One Shoulder Strap maybe omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both) If a Shoulder Strap is removed, then it should be replaced/tied with *Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.|
+
*May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*One Shoulder Strap may be omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both).
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
**If a Shoulder Strap is omitted, it is replaced/ tied with worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.|
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*Shoulder straps are aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*These shall free float in back.  
+
*Straps free float in back.
-
*These shall be glued in front.  
+
*Straps are glued in front.
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*The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.|}}  
+
*The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.}}  
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Shoulder Bells|
+
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:TK_deathtrooper-shoulders.jpg|Shoulder Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*May have some stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.  
-
*One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. |
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|}}
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.|
+
-
}}
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Biceps|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-bicep.jpg|Upper Arm Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
*Biceps are fully closed.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*One bicep may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
-
*Biceps are fully closed. |
+
*May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.  
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*Biceps are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method.
-
*One bicep may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both). |
+
**Overlap construction is not allowed.}}
-
}}
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Forearms|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-forearms.jpg|Forearm Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
*Forearms are fully closed.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Armor has a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Forearms are fully closed. |
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Should have some stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.|
+
*No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.  
*No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.  
-
}}
+
*Forearms are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. **Overlap construction is not allowed.}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Hand Plates|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_handplates.jpg|Hand Plates|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Armor has  a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*One Hand Plate may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
-
*Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. |
+
*May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Armor has some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*One Hand Plate may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).|
+
*Hand guards are latex or latex-like, painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.}}
-
*Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.  
+
-
}}
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_gloves.jpeg|Gloves|
+
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:Deathtrooper_gloves.jpg|Gloves|
-
*Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. | |
+
*Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
-
*Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. }}
+
*Gloves are distressed/ worn.
 +
**If any skin is exposed it is covered with a zombie-like prosthetic skin.|
 +
*Gloves are rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.|}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-chest.jpg|Chest|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-chest.jpg|Chest Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Chest armor overlaps the abdominal armor.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*Armor has stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.|
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Chest armor may have one of the top corner/ shoulder strap areas missing.
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
**If opting to damage/ remove this area of the chest armor, the remaining area is strapped with Worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*May have blaster wounds.|
-
*Chest plate may have one of the top corner/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damaged/remove this area of the chest plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together.|
+
*Armor has stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.  
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
}}
+
*Chest and back armor are connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.
 +
*AM chest armor is replaced with a more screen accurate version.}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_back.jpg|Back|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_back.jpg|Back Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Center detail section of back armor contains a "O II" design.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*May have a few stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.  
-
*Back plate contains a "O II" design. |
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Back armor may have one of the top corners/ shoulder strap areas missing.
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
**If opting to damage/ remove this area of the back armor, the remaining area is strapped with Worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.|
-
*Back plate may have one of the top corners/shoulder strap areas missing. If you are opting to damaged/remove this area of the back plate, then you should strap the remaining area with Worn/old looking mummy style bandages to help hold the chest and back together. |
+
*Back armor has minimal to no overlap of the kidney armor.
-
*Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.  
+
*AM back armor is replaced with a more screen accurate version.}}
-
}}
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_undersuit.jpeg|Under Suit|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_abplate.jpg|Abdomen Armor|
-
*Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. |
+
*The abdomen armor  has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.
-
*Under Suit shall be distressed/worn.
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*The under suit may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic/mask.).  
+
*Armor has stains that emulate dried blood, but does not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
-
*Some area of the Under Suit should have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages.  
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
| }}
+
*Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.
 +
**Any shims used to achieve this effect  are made of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney armor.
 +
**Shims fit flush and seams are allowed.
 +
*Armor has stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
 +
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
 +
*The abdomen armor may have large missing/ broken off area or areas.
 +
**If any large area is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.|
 +
*There is no open gap between the ab and kidney armor, just a single visible seam line.
 +
*Rivets on the left side of the abdomen armor : a total of three fasteners, the heads are rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.
 +
*A single male snap on the top right corner of the abdomen armor is present.
 +
*A single split rivet or brad is present on the lower center tab of the abdomen armor.
 +
**Rivit does not need to be functional.
 +
*Abdomen armor buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor.
 +
**Not separate buttons.}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Abdomen Plate|
+
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:TK_deathtrooper-kidney.jpg|Kidney Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*A separate kidney armor piece is present, split from the posterior armor.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter.|
+
*Three rivets are present on the left side of the kidney armor, the heads are approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.
-
*Any gap between the ab and kidney plate shall be no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney plate. Shims shall fit flush and seams are allowed .
+
**Note: For the original used TK armor, the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.|}}
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
-
*The ab plate may have large missing/broken off area/areas. If any skin is exposed it shall with be covered with zombie-like prosthetic/mask.
+
-
*The ab plate shall have blood stains and/or coagulated blood /splatter (blood stains and/or coagulated blood may be made from paint or stage blood that dries, but shall not be the liquidy/permanently wet fake blood). |
+
-
*Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.
+
-
*Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three rivets equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.  
+
-
*A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate shall be present.
+
-
*A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate. It does not need to be functional.
+
-
}}
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Kidney Plate|
+
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:TK_deathtrooper-butt.jpg|Posterior Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.  
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*A separate posterior armor piece is required, split from the kidney armor.
-
*It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate. |
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*A separate kidney plate shall be present, split from the butt plate.
+
*Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab of the posterior armor.
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
**Snaps do not need to be functional.|}}
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.|
+
-
*3 rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate, equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.  
+
-
}}
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-belt.jpg|Belt|
 +
*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
 +
*The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. **Size is 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt.
 +
**The color is white to off-white and has a distressed old look.
 +
*The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
 +
*Belt has a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
 +
*May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
 +
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
 +
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
 +
*There are three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.
 +
*One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both).
 +
**If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from is ripped/ torn.|
 +
*Drop boxes have full inner boxes to close the back.
 +
**Flat covers are not allowed.
 +
*Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.
 +
*The corners of the plastic ammo belt are trimmed at a 45 degree angle.}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Butt Plate|
+
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:Deathtrooper_detanator.jpg|Thermal Detonator|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
*Detonator attaches to the center back of the belt.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
**The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end.  
-
*It is allowable to have a single butt/kidney plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of the belt and line up with the kidney plate, with a minimal gap between it and the kidney plate. |
+
*The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.
-
*A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate.
+
*The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide.
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.|
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Two male snaps shall be present on the crotch tab of the butt plate. They do not need to be functional.
+
*Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.|}}
-
}}
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Belt|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_thighs.jpg|Thigh Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
*Thigh armor is closed in the back.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).  
+
*May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 3” to 3.5” wide. The color is be white to off-white.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. |
+
*armor has some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.|
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Standard pop rivets are not allowed
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt are rounded off.
-
*Belt shall be canvas or canvas covered, and shall have a distressed old look. leather and vinyl are not acceptable.  
+
*Thighs are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.}}
-
*There shall be three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt..
+
-
*One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both). If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from shall be ripped/torn.|
+
-
*Drop boxes are closed in the back.
+
-
*The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.  
+
-
}}
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Thermal Detonator|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper-shins.jpg|Lower Leg Armor|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
*Greaves close in the back.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*The trapezoid knee section (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*The AM greaves (shins) are on the proper legs, with a new cover strip.
-
*Attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2” and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps on each end, and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap. |
+
**The cover strip edge faces the inside of the leg.
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
***Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on whitearmor.net
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
-
*The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint. |
+
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint. |
-
}}
+
*Armor has some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
 +
*Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
 +
*Sniper knee plate is aligned with the ridges on the shin.
 +
*Sniper knee plate does not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.|
 +
*Lower legs are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. **Overlap construction is not allowed.}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_thighs.jpg|Thighs|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:Deathtrooper_boots.jpg|Boots|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.  
+
*Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.  
+
*Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*Flat sole with a short heel.
-
*Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.  
+
*No buckles or laces.
-
*The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. |
+
*Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
**Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Boots are weathered with an aged white color and areas of drab olive greenish and yellowed tinting.
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.|
+
*Boots have a distressed/cracked/damaged appearance.|
-
*The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only – but not by standard rivets.
+
*Boots have stains that emulate dried blood.
-
*The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. }}
+
**Liquid / "permanently wet" fake blood is not allowed.|
 +
*There is no seam on the front of the boot.}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:Blankwhite.gif|Lower Legs|
+
{{CRLaccessories}}
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
-
*Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave. |
+
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.|
+
-
*There should be no visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate to the left greave.
+
-
}}
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_deathtrooper_boots.jpg|Boots|
+
{{CRLtemplate-nolevels|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
*If a holster is worn, it is made of black leather or leather-like material.
-
*May have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
*Worn on the left side of belt and be attached from behind, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
-
*May be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.
+
*The holster is affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four.
-
*White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. |
+
**The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.||}}
-
*Must have a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
+
-
*Must have stains and/or weathering to emulate dried blood, but shall not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
+
-
*Must be yellowed and/or have greenish tint to some areas.|
+
-
*There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed). }}
+
 +
{{CRLtemplate-nolevels|File:Uc28616BVIII.gif|Mummy Style Bandages|
 +
*It is optional to have some Worn/old looking (mummy style) bandages. The mummy style bandages may be wrapped loosely around some areas of the costume, but not over 30%.||}}
-
{{CRLaccessories}}
+
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:Zombie parts.jpg|Zombie Prosthetic Pieces|
-
 
+
*Pieces may be a latex or latex like Halloween mask, hands or body parts.|
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_holster.jpeg|Holster|
+
*Prosthetic pieces are applied with professional movie-like makeup.|}}
-
*Made of black leather or leather-like material.|  
+
-
*Holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
+
-
*The holster will be affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.| }}
+
-
 
+
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_e11.jpeg|BlasTech E-11|
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_rotj_e11.jpg|E-11 Blaster|
*Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.|
*Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.|
*Folding stock (does not need to function).
*Folding stock (does not need to function).
-
*A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
+
*No ammo counter is present.
*D-ring mounted on the rear.
*D-ring mounted on the rear.
*Correct style scope.
*Correct style scope.
-
*Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
+
*No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
-
*Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
+
*Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel are covered).
-
*If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.
+
*If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all).
-
*No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.|
+
*Correct style greeblies, on the left rear area, are present.
-
*Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.}}
+
**"Door catch" and two "hammers".|
 +
*Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
 +
*Forward D-ring is mounted underneath the front sight on the left side of the barrel.
 +
*Use of the correct front sight (which differs from ANH and ESB).
 +
*The scope rail is unique to ROTJ E11 and is not like the normal open ANH/ESB scope rails, but is a solid, one piece, with a unique sight design on the front. The scope connects to the notched out area of the solid rail. The scope is of the correct design (as the ones seen in ROTJ), and is attached to the scope rail via one scope mount.
 +
*The muzzle will be unlike the normal ANH style. It is flat with two counter sunk Allen bolts (one located at the four o’clock position and one located at the ten ‘o’clock position).
 +
*The "door catch" is the correct style.
 +
**Not a "close enough" attempt as seen on the Cinemastery blaster.}}
 +
 
 +
{{CRLtemplate-onelevel|File:TK_anh_stunt_dlt19.jpeg|DLT-19 Blaster Rifle|
 +
*Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.|
 +
*A DLT-19 is a real word MG-34, with T-tracks present on barrel, ejection port cover added to one side, and small disk present on left side.|}}
-
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_anh_stunt_dlt19.jpeg|BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle|
+
{{CRLfooter|FISD_CRL|T}}
-
*Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. |
+
-
*A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.| }}
+

Revision as of 08:52, 26 June 2014

crlblackhd.gif
Death Trooper
Deathtrooper full.jpg
Model TK-5940, Photo by Tom Gardner


FISD.png

Description: Death Trooper
Prefix: TK
Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment
Context: Star Wars: Expanded Universe

The Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust.

Please note: This particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. This is not recommended as a primary Legion membership costume. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.


The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for Level 2 "Expert Infantryman" are listed in blue. Requirements for Level 3 "Centurion" are listed in red.

  • Those armor pieces without blue and/ or red text are by default considered the highest level.
  • Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

Special Notes:

  • Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper costume.
  • Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.
  • The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
  • FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval.

This CRL entry has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team. Costumes of this type must be submitted to the LMO team via the GML forum at 501st.com for approval.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

TK deathtrooper helmet.jpg Helmet
For 501st approval:
  • Armor have a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
    • If any large areas are missing from the helmet and skin is exposed, it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
  • Armor has some stains to emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
  • Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
  • The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline.
    • Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
  • Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
  • Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
  • Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
  • Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
  • Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor has stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • Ears have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar, and one at the base of the helmet.
  • Ear bars have four bumps only, not three.
  • Traps/ tears and tube stripes have the correct ANH TK details.
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
  • FX helmets are not allowed.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
  • ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
  • Ear bars have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim is of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps are hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
Deathtrooper neckseal.jpg Neck Seal
For 501st approval:
  • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.
  • Neck Seal is distressed/ worn.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Neck Seal may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic/ mask.
TK anh stunt undersuit.jpeg Under Suit
For 501st approval:
  • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.
  • Under Suit is distressed/ worn.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • The under suit may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
  • Some areas of the Under Suit have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages.
Deathtrooper shoulder straps.jpg Shoulder Straps
For 501st approval:
  • Straps are securely mounted in front and may free float in back.
  • They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
  • No visible rivets are allowed.
  • Straps have a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • One Shoulder Strap may be omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both).
    • If a Shoulder Strap is omitted, it is replaced/ tied with worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Shoulder straps are aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Straps free float in back.
  • Straps are glued in front.
  • The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.
TK deathtrooper-shoulders.jpg Shoulder Armor
For 501st approval:
  • One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • May have some stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
TK deathtrooper-bicep.jpg Upper Arm Armor
For 501st approval:
  • Biceps are fully closed.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • One bicep may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
  • May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Biceps are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method.
    • Overlap construction is not allowed.
TK deathtrooper-forearms.jpg Forearm Armor
For 501st approval:
  • Forearms are fully closed.
  • Armor has a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Should have some stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.
  • Forearms are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. **Overlap construction is not allowed.
Deathtrooper handplates.jpg Hand Plates
For 501st approval:
  • Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • One Hand Plate may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
  • May have some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor has some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hand guards are latex or latex-like, painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.
Deathtrooper gloves.jpg Gloves
For 501st approval:
  • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
  • Gloves are distressed/ worn.
    • If any skin is exposed it is covered with a zombie-like prosthetic skin.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Gloves are rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.
TK deathtrooper-chest.jpg Chest Armor
For 501st approval:
  • Chest armor overlaps the abdominal armor.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • Armor has stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • Chest armor may have one of the top corner/ shoulder strap areas missing.
    • If opting to damage/ remove this area of the chest armor, the remaining area is strapped with Worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.
  • May have blaster wounds.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor has stains that emulate dried blood, Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Chest and back armor are connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.
  • AM chest armor is replaced with a more screen accurate version.
TK deathtrooper back.jpg Back Armor
For 501st approval:
  • Center detail section of back armor contains a "O II" design.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • May have a few stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • Back armor may have one of the top corners/ shoulder strap areas missing.
    • If opting to damage/ remove this area of the back armor, the remaining area is strapped with Worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Back armor has minimal to no overlap of the kidney armor.
  • AM back armor is replaced with a more screen accurate version.
Deathtrooper abplate.jpg Abdomen Armor
For 501st approval:
  • The abdomen armor has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • Armor has stains that emulate dried blood, but does not use liquid / permanently wet fake blood.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.
    • Any shims used to achieve this effect are made of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney armor.
    • Shims fit flush and seams are allowed.
  • Armor has stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • The abdomen armor may have large missing/ broken off area or areas.
    • If any large area is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • There is no open gap between the ab and kidney armor, just a single visible seam line.
  • Rivets on the left side of the abdomen armor : a total of three fasteners, the heads are rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.
  • A single male snap on the top right corner of the abdomen armor is present.
  • A single split rivet or brad is present on the lower center tab of the abdomen armor.
    • Rivit does not need to be functional.
  • Abdomen armor buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor.
    • Not separate buttons.
TK deathtrooper-kidney.jpg Kidney Armor
For 501st approval:
  • A separate kidney armor piece is present, split from the posterior armor.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Three rivets are present on the left side of the kidney armor, the heads are approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.
    • Note: For the original used TK armor, the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.
TK deathtrooper-butt.jpg Posterior Armor
For 501st approval:
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • A separate posterior armor piece is required, split from the kidney armor.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab of the posterior armor.
    • Snaps do not need to be functional.
TK deathtrooper-belt.jpg Belt
For 501st approval:
  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering. **Size is 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt.
    • The color is white to off-white and has a distressed old look.
  • The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
  • Belt has a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
  • May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • There are three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.
  • One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both).
    • If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from is ripped/ torn.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Drop boxes have full inner boxes to close the back.
    • Flat covers are not allowed.
  • Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.
  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt are trimmed at a 45 degree angle.
Deathtrooper detanator.jpg Thermal Detonator
For 501st approval:
  • Detonator attaches to the center back of the belt.
  • Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.
    • The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end.
  • The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.
  • The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).
  • The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.
TK deathtrooper thighs.jpg Thigh Armor
For 501st approval:
  • Thigh armor is closed in the back.
  • The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • armor has some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Standard pop rivets are not allowed
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt are rounded off.
  • Thighs are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
TK deathtrooper-shins.jpg Lower Leg Armor
For 501st approval:
  • Greaves close in the back.
  • The trapezoid knee section (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
  • The AM greaves (shins) are on the proper legs, with a new cover strip.
    • The cover strip edge faces the inside of the leg.
      • Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on whitearmor.net
  • Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
  • May have stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor has some stains that emulate dried blood. Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not allowed.
  • Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
  • Sniper knee plate is aligned with the ridges on the shin.
  • Sniper knee plate does not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Lower legs are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. **Overlap construction is not allowed.
Deathtrooper boots.jpg Boots
For 501st approval:
  • Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
  • Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle.
  • Flat sole with a short heel.
  • No buckles or laces.
  • Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
    • Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
  • Boots are weathered with an aged white color and areas of drab olive greenish and yellowed tinting.
  • Boots have a distressed/cracked/damaged appearance.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Boots have stains that emulate dried blood.
    • Liquid / "permanently wet" fake blood is not allowed.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • There is no seam on the front of the boot.
Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below.

TK anh stunt holster.jpeg Holster
For 501st approval:
  • If a holster is worn, it is made of black leather or leather-like material.
  • Worn on the left side of belt and be attached from behind, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
  • The holster is affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four.
    • The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.


Uc28616BVIII.gif Mummy Style Bandages
For 501st approval:
  • It is optional to have some Worn/old looking (mummy style) bandages. The mummy style bandages may be wrapped loosely around some areas of the costume, but not over 30%.


Zombie parts.jpg Zombie Prosthetic Pieces
For 501st approval:
  • Pieces may be a latex or latex like Halloween mask, hands or body parts.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Prosthetic pieces are applied with professional movie-like makeup.
TK rotj e11.jpg E-11 Blaster
For 501st approval:
  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Folding stock (does not need to function).
  • No ammo counter is present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Correct style scope.
  • No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
  • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel are covered).
  • If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all).
  • Correct style greeblies, on the left rear area, are present.
    • "Door catch" and two "hammers".
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
  • Forward D-ring is mounted underneath the front sight on the left side of the barrel.
  • Use of the correct front sight (which differs from ANH and ESB).
  • The scope rail is unique to ROTJ E11 and is not like the normal open ANH/ESB scope rails, but is a solid, one piece, with a unique sight design on the front. The scope connects to the notched out area of the solid rail. The scope is of the correct design (as the ones seen in ROTJ), and is attached to the scope rail via one scope mount.
  • The muzzle will be unlike the normal ANH style. It is flat with two counter sunk Allen bolts (one located at the four o’clock position and one located at the ten ‘o’clock position).
  • The "door catch" is the correct style.
    • Not a "close enough" attempt as seen on the Cinemastery blaster.
TK anh stunt dlt19.jpeg DLT-19 Blaster Rifle
For 501st approval:
  • Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • A DLT-19 is a real word MG-34, with T-tracks present on barrel, ejection port cover added to one side, and small disk present on left side.

This document and all of the images within were created by and are the property of the 501st Legion. All other uses are prohibited.

The 501st Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While it is not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred Imperial costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. ©2012 Lucasfilm Ltd. & TM. All rights reserved. Used under authorization.

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The 501st Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While it is not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred Imperial costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © & ™ Lucasfilm Ltd. All rights reserved. Used under authorization.