Description: Stormtrooper Commander (TKC)
Prefix: TK
Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment
Context: The Force Unleashed

The Stormtrooper Commanders patrol hostile battlefields, leading their troops into fierce combat on dangerous worlds such as the fungus planet Felucia. With razor-sharp minds and steely resolve, these highly trained Imperial soldiers continue the reputation established by the Clone Wars’ fearsome ARC troopers. Clearly visible in their uniquely detailed armor, the Commanders confront enemies such as the savage Felucians with deadly heavy blaster cannons equipped with a devastating stun setting. They are rewarded for their loyalty with specialized armor fitted with an internal shield generator capable of deflecting nearly any attack, with the exeception of a lightsaber. Most importantly, the Stormtrooper Commanders are entrusted with command over the Empire’s elite Shadow Troopers, with authority to call in reinforcements and trigger ambushes without clearance from Imperial high command. Stormtrooper Commanders typically hang back and stun the most threatening enemy, who is then overwhelmed by Shadow Troopers.

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

FISD Defines two additional, optional levels of costuming excellence: Expert Infantryman and Centurion. In the page below, requirements for Expert Infantryman are listed in blue. Centurion requirements are in red. Please visit the FISD web site for a full description of these standards.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

Special Notes:

• Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper costume.
• Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.
• The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials: White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), or HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene).

• Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
• Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
• Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
• The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and should be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
• Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar.
• Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
• Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
• Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
• Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
• Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
• Blue stripe detail shall be present on the right side of the helmet, starting from the back of the helmet, and continued on to the bottom of the face (stripe tapers to a point as it goes down the face).
• Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
• Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
• Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications.
  

• Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
• Ear bars should have four bumps only, not three.
• Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details
• Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
• FX helmets are not allowed.
• Helmet and details/paint should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
• ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
• Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
• Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
• Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).

• Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.
  

• These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
  

• No visible rivets are allowed.
• Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%.
• Shoulder straps should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).
• These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).

• One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.
• The entire shoulder bell shall be blue.
  

• Shoulder bells are rounded at the corners.
• No shoulder bell straps across the biceps.
• Shoulder bells/blue Commander details should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• Biceps are fully closed.
• Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both biceps (one to the front and one on the side).
  

• No shoulder bell straps across the biceps.
• Biceps/blue Commander details should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• Forearms are fully closed.
• Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both Forearms (one to the front and one on the side).
  

• Forearms/blue Commander details should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

• Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
  

• Hand plates should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.

• Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
  

• Gloves shall be rubber or rubber like chemical gloves in black.

• Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.
• A blue detail shall be present in the form of a Y-Shape. The blue Y-Shaped detail will have slanted white stripes, one on each side of the flared upper parts of the Y-shape.
  

• A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges, bottom, both sides and neck area.
• Chest/blue Commander details should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• Back plate contains a "O II" design.
• A blue detail shall be present in the form of a Y-Shape. The blue Y-Shaped detail will have slanted white stripes, one on each side of the flared upper parts of the Y-shape.
  

• A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges, bottom, both sides and neck area.
• The Back plate/blue Commander details should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.
• Ideally the AM/FX style back plate should be replaced with a more screen accurate type. If using an AM/FX style back plate it shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate and shall be reshaped to emulate a screen used back plate by properly trimming and re-shaping (stretching) the left and right edges of the armor to contour to your body. (Note:Return edge is not required but shall have the rubber gasket). Note: There is currently no tutorial available for this, but you can see an example of this Mod and visual comparison at whitearmor.net

• Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.
  

• The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 dark blue + 6 black or all black); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.
• A blue stripe shall be present on the ab section and stops underneath the belt area. The blue stripe is wide at the bottom and narrows toward the top, to match up to the blue Y-Shaped detail of the chest plate.
  

• The three dark blue buttons will be the three buttons closest to the belt.
• A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.
• Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB.
• Ab plate/blue Commander details should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• Ab plate buttons shall be all black.
• There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate.
• Left vertical row of ab plate buttons should contain five buttons. All buttons shall be of the same size and color and shall be visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button shall be mounted vertically above the standard four buttons.

• It is allowable to have a separate kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it shall line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of belt and line up with the kidney plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.
• The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps.
  

• A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece.
• A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.
• The edges of the hip area should be rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB butt plate).
• Kidney/Butt plate should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate. There will be one rivet near the top and one near the bottom on each side. They may be painted white, or not.
• There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab.

• Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
• Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, 2.25”(57mm) to 3.5”(75mm) wide. The color is be white to off-white.
• The drop boxes shall be painted gray and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
  

• Belt shall be a tightly woven nylon/cordura style material, or may be canvas or canvas covered, and the color is be white to off-white. The belt material should be lightly aged,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Leather and vinyl are not acceptable.
• Belt shall be between 2.25"(57mm) and 2.5"(64mm) wide, not 3" (75mm) as in ANH/ESB.
• There shall be two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt. The center square button is not allowed.
• Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.
• Drop boxes are closed in the back.
• The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets should form a rectangular pattern).

• (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2" (50mm) and 2.5" (64mm) in diameter with white end caps and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.
  

• The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1" (25mm) wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.
• The thermal detonator should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• The thermal detonator control panel shall have correct ROTJ details, or the "game style" version. The ANH/ESB style is not allowed.

• Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
• The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
• The outside half of the right thigh shall be blue with two white semi-horizontal stripes near the top.
  

• Thighs/blue Commander details should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable.
• The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

• Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
• The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net
• Only the outside half of the right greave shall be blue.
  

• Greaves/blue Commander details should be lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

• White leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
• Both boots shall have two blue stripes painted, curving across the top of the foot.
  

• There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed).
• Boots shall be lightly scuffed.

• Made of black leather or leather-like material.
  

• Holster should be omitted from this costume.
• For trooping convenience, you may have a holster.
• Holster shall be worn on the left and be attached to the belt from behind instead of front, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
• The holster shall be affixed with four fasteners (two at the top and two at the bottom of the belt) instead of none or two. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below.

• Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
  

• Folding stock (should be in the extended position).
• No ammo counter shall be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Correct style scope.
• No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
• Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
• If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

• Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
  

• Folding stock (should be in the extended position).
• No ammo counter shall be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Correct style scope.
• No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
• Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel shall be covered).
• If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, you shall grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all).
• Correct greeblies on the left rear area shall be present (door catch and two "hammers").

• Folding stock shall be in the extended position.
• Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

• The SE-14R blaster may be carried. It shall have a correct scope if carried in lieu of the E-11 for informal events.
  

• The hilt should be Graflex style or have the characteristics of the Graflex, (reference Luke Skywalker's lightsaber from ANH and ESB). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow.
• Note: Double blades, small Yoda style lightsaber, or inexpensive non-FX Hasbro Lightsaber toys are not allowed.
  

• The hilt shall be made to reference Starkiller's lightsaber (as seen in The Force Unleashed). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow.