(Difference between revisions)
Line 65: Line 65:
* There are two cylindrical 'donut' extensions on each side of the box, one above the other, approx 2.35" (6 cm) in diameter.
* There are two cylindrical 'donut' extensions on each side of the box, one above the other, approx 2.35" (6 cm) in diameter.
* The upper donut is slightly wider than the lower one and has a hole for the hose that runs from helmet to Chest box.
* The upper donut is slightly wider than the lower one and has a hole for the hose that runs from helmet to Chest box.
-
* Custom circuit detail and greeblies on front of Chest box.| | }}
+
* Custom circuit detail and greeblies on front of Chest box.||}}
{{CRLtemplate-nolevels|File:AT-AT_hoses.jpg|Hoses|
{{CRLtemplate-nolevels|File:AT-AT_hoses.jpg|Hoses|
* Grey ribbed hose running from rear helmet canisters, over the shoulders and to the upper donut extensions on the Chest box.
* Grey ribbed hose running from rear helmet canisters, over the shoulders and to the upper donut extensions on the Chest box.
-
* Hose is approx 1" in diameter.| | }}
+
* Hose is approx 1" in diameter.||}}
{{CRLtemplate|File:AT-AT_gloves.jpg|Gloves|
{{CRLtemplate|File:AT-AT_gloves.jpg|Gloves|
Line 98: Line 98:
{{CRLdh17}}
{{CRLdh17}}
-
{{CRLgeneric-e11}}
+
{{CRLtemplate|File:TK_esb_blaster1.jpeg|E-11 Blaster (ESB)|
 +
*Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.|
 +
*Folding stock (does not need to function).
 +
*No ammo counter shall be present.
 +
*D-ring mounted on the rear.
 +
*Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.
 +
**The M-19 scope is preferred.
 +
*No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
 +
*Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
 +
*If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes,  the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.|
 +
*Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.}}
{{CRLfooter|ACD_CRL|T}}
{{CRLfooter|ACD_CRL|T}}

Revision as of 03:22, 9 May 2014

crlblackhd.gif
AT-AT Driver
AT-AT full.jpg
Model TA-9352, Photo by Graham Roberts


Armored-Calvary-Detachment.png

Description: AT-AT Driver
Prefix: TA
Detachment: Armored Cavalry Detachment
Context: Star Wars Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back

These specially trained Imperial troopers are responsible for the operation and maintenance of the Galactic Empire's AT-AT walkers. Their armor and equipment is designed to ensure their safety in the event of a hull breach or survival in a hostile environment.


The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

The Armored Cavalry Detachment defines additional, optional costuming details listed in blue and red. Please visit the ACD web site for more details on these options.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.


This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type.
  • Any uncertainties or questionable aspects of the submitted costume should be brought to the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the legion forum.
Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

AT-AT helmet.jpg Helmet
For 501st approval:
  • For more details, please see the AT-AT Driver helmet detail page
  • Constructed in ABS from a kit or ready made, Fibreglass moulded, or an Imperial TIE Pilot helmet from Rubies or Don Post, painted White and reinforced.
  • Two Red Imperial cog decals either side of the Mohawk.
  • Painted Red dot on the centre bump of each ear.
  • Flat or bubble lenses (Green or Black)
  • Two small squares either side of the Mohawk. Left hand side is Red, Right Hand side Gray or Silver. There is a small Red dot above RH square.
  • Two Forehead 'Clock Greeblies' in the recessed area in front of Mohawk. The recessed areas are White. Also there is a small Silver knob just below the centre of the Mohawk.
  • Two black 'Soda Siphon' greeblies on the sides of the face to the sides of each lens. They have a small section of ribbed Grey tube extending up and into the top section of the helmet, above the lenses.
  • Small Black rectangular Greeblie with a small White vertical stripe, on the inside of each Grey Tube, tucked partially under the top section of the helmet.
  • The mouth/frown is painted Black and the bottom half of the centre tooth is painted Red.
  • There are Aluminum Tusks in the recessed areas of the chin where the hoses on a Tie Pilot would go. They are conical at the tip.
  • The center 3 Vocoder chin bumps are painted Black. The center bump has a small area at the top that is not painted.
  • Three Black stripes running from front to back along the cheek tubes, where a TK tube stripes would go. The top stripe is twice as thick as the lower two, and the forward edges of the stripes are cut at angle, the top side being longer.
  • The back of the helmet has 2 Grey cylinders/Canisters to each side of the Mohawk that the hoses attach to. The RH one has a Red stripe and the LH one has a Black square painted on it. They are topped with an aluminum washer greeblie.
  • A rectangular “pill box” on the back of the Mohawk, painted Black or made of Black plastic. There is also a small Red square on the left side above the pill box.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Helmet painted Light Grey as per the real prop - Armour and Chest box must match the helmet colour
  • Red dot on the center bump of LH ear only, RH ear has no red dot on some promo photographs
  • Interior of Soda siphon has a clip, that should be outlined in Red Paint
  • Larger white bump just to rear of Right ear should be Red
  • The Left helmet tusk should have a Red tip.
  • White Rubber trim lining the bottom edge of helmet. Trim should be plain and semi glossy (no metal supported trim etc with ribbing or similar uneven surfaces)
  • Interior of Helmet Painted Black.
  • Half moon plastic disks behind the tusks, supported by an (as of yet) unrecognized white attachment.
  • Bubble lenses.
  • Two red square stickers on the top of the air canisters'.
  • A red arrow at the tip of the trident.
Generic Balaclava White.jpg Balaclava
For 501st approval:
  • White balaclava worn under the helmet.
    • The balaclava is a White head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair.
    • Option: Although a white balaclava is considered most cannon, a black balaclava is also acceptable.



Imperial flightsuit grey.jpg Grey Imperial Flight Suit
For 501st approval:
  • One piece light grey coverall/jumpsuit/flight suit with a front invisible zipper.
  • Approximately 1.5" (38.1mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right velcro closure.
  • A silver or white "imperial cog" emblem on a black background must be present on both shoulders. The cog is 3" or 3.5" in diameter, and 1" from the shoulder seam.
    • If the costume includes armor that covers the cog emblems entirely, they may be omitted.
  • On the left forearm there is a com-pad pocket approximately 5" (127mm) wide by 5.75" (146.05mm) tall with no flap and a 2.25" (57.15mm) window in it. (Size might vary to match your com-pad)
  • On the left bicep, approximately 2" (50.8mm) below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves.
  • The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves.
  • The right sleeve has a cargo pocket approximateyl 6" (152mm) wide and 5.75" (146mm) on the bicep approx 2"(50.8mm) below the cog emblem. The pocket has a 2"(50.8mm) flap.
  • 2 large chest pockets and 2 large front pockets below the belt without any zipper or flaps
  • 2 leg pockets with flaps similar in proportion as the one on the right arm sleeve. Size may differ. (Usually the width of the front pockets equals the width of the leg pockets)
  • Rank bars of any kind are not permitted.
  • There are no leg pockets below the knees
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • All pocket flaps to have chevron point.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Imperial patches on the shoulders shall be printed vinyl rather than embroidered.
  • The suit has a pointed collar in the back.
AT-AT armour.jpg Armor
For 501st approval:
  • White chest and back armor, with large flat surface on the chest plate for the chest box.
  • Circuit Board detail plate on rear of back armour, Black, White and Gold in colour. Grey angled greeblie in centre of the circuit board plate.
  • Stormtrooper Style ribbed shoulder bridges connecting the front and back armour plates, in White.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • One shaped knurled thumbscrew on the front and rear of each shoulder strap
  • White rubber trim around top and side edges of the chest and back armor. There is no trim on the bottom edges. Trim should be plain and semi glossy (no metal supported trim etc with ribbing or similar uneven surfaces)
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • One small hole in each of the bottom corners, with black elastic joining the two.
AT-AT shoulder bells.jpg Shoulder Bells
For 501st approval:
  • Snow Trooper style shoulder bells, rotated 180 Degrees, so the ridges of the shoulder bell go along the top.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • One small hole in each of the two corners, with thread looping to the outside. To make them look like they are stitched to the flight-suit.
AT-AT chest box.jpg Chest Box
For 501st approval:
  • Rectangular box approx H7" x W7.25" x D2.5"
  • The top of the Chest box is angled at approx 45 Degrees at the front, sides and rear forming an apex.
  • Small angled extension on top of Chest box approx H0.75" x W2.00"
  • The lower half of the Chest box is slightly shallower than the upper half.
  • There are two cylindrical 'donut' extensions on each side of the box, one above the other, approx 2.35" (6 cm) in diameter.
  • The upper donut is slightly wider than the lower one and has a hole for the hose that runs from helmet to Chest box.
  • Custom circuit detail and greeblies on front of Chest box.


AT-AT hoses.jpg Hoses
For 501st approval:
  • Grey ribbed hose running from rear helmet canisters, over the shoulders and to the upper donut extensions on the Chest box.
  • Hose is approx 1" in diameter.


AT-AT gloves.jpg Gloves
For 501st approval:
  • Gray or White leather gloves with a 4-6 inch cuff.
    • The brand name WELDAS SOFTOUCH Tig/Mig gloves appear to be the closest to the screen used gloves.
    • White Damascus D650 Gauntlets or White/Grey Fencing gloves are a perfectly acceptable alternative.
  • The left glove cuff has a small commpad on it, approx 1.5" x 1.5" with the outer section slightly curved, and the inner section straight. The Commpad has a circular centre section about 3/4" high, and topped with a small silver disk, slightly smaller than the centre section in diameter.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Comm-pad to have clear/silver raised buttons in a row along the flat side. 5 in total .
  • Three raised parallel lines on the back of each hand.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Comm-pad to have 5 pin headers, instead of buttons.
AT-AT ejection harness.jpg Ejection Harness
For 501st approval:
  • Gray webbing extending from the below front armor to the back armor under the crotch.
  • Two loops wrap around each leg at the knees and are attached to the rest of the webbing at the crotch.
  • Webbing must be 2" wide.


TS commander boots.jpg Boots
For 501st approval:
  • White or light Gray “moon” boots. These are very hard to find without some kind of decoration on them, but they are out there.
  • Snowtrooper style Canadian Muk Luks with ALL lace loops and 'D' rings removed may be used if moon boots are unavailable.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • White or Light Gray Moon boots, with no exterior markings or fasteners and a serrated sole.
  • Tape around the top of boot.
Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below.

AT-AT helmet customisation.jpg Optional Helmet Customization
For 501st approval:
  • Red stripe on rear of Mohawk, approx 1.5" wide with the lower end coming to a point like an arrow. Can be painted or Red Electrical tape.



TR ROTJ DH-17Blaster.jpg DH-17 Blaster
For 501st approval:

Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DH-17 is a standard-issue Imperial sidearm for shipboard combat. The energy and power of the weapon are tuned to penetrate necessary targets, yet it will not puncture a starship's hull.


  • Scratch built or high-end prop replica.


TK esb blaster1.jpeg E-11 Blaster (ESB)
For 501st approval:
  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
For level two certification (if applicable):
  • Folding stock (does not need to function).
  • No ammo counter shall be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.
    • The M-19 scope is preferred.
  • No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
  • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
  • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.
For level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

This document and all of the images within were created by and are the property of the 501st Legion. All other uses are prohibited.

The 501st Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While it is not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred Imperial costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. ©2012 Lucasfilm Ltd. & TM. All rights reserved. Used under authorization.

Visit www.501st.com to learn more.
Personal tools
The 501st Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While it is not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred Imperial costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © & ™ Lucasfilm Ltd. All rights reserved. Used under authorization.