Description: AT-AT Driver
Prefix: TA
Detachment: Armored Cavalry Detachment
Context: Star Wars Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back
These specially trained Imperial troopers pilot the AT-AT walkers.

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

The Armored Cavalry Detachment defines additional, optional costuming details listed in blue. Please visit the ACD web site for more details on these options.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

• This CRL is a work in progress. This costume may be approved by GMLs, but additional research should be done until the CRL is complete.
• If you have this costume and would like to assist with this CRL, please contact your detachment leader!
• Please note that the use of the word "should" below does not indicate that a requirement is optional. All instances of should will be replaced with must as this guide is completed.

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .

• For more details, please see the AT-AT Driver helmet detail page
• Constructed in ABS from a kit or ready made, Fibreglass moulded, or an Imperial TIE Pilot helmet from Rubies or Don Post, painted White and reinforced.
• Two Red Imperial cog decals either side of the Mohawk.
• Painted Red dot on the centre bump of each ear.
• Flat or bubble lenses (Green or Black)
• Two small squares either side of the Mohawk. Left hand side is Red, Right Hand side Gray or Silver. There is a small Red dot above RH square.
• Two Forehead 'Clock Greeblies' in the recessed area in front of Mohawk. The recessed areas are White. Also there is a small Silver knob just below the centre of the Mohawk.
• Two black 'Soda Siphon' greeblies on the sides of the face to the sides of each lens. They have a small section of ribbed Grey tube extending up and into the top section of the helmet, above the lenses.
• Small Black rectangular Greeblie with a small White vertical stripe, on the inside of each Grey Tube, tucked partially under the top section of the helmet.
• The mouth/frown is painted Black and the bottom half of the centre tooth is painted Red.
• There are Aluminum Tusks in the recessed areas of the chin where the hoses on a Tie Pilot would go. They are conical at the tip.
• The center 3 Vocoder chin bumps are painted Black. The center bump has a small area at the top that is not painted.
• Three Black stripes running from front to back along the cheek tubes, where a TK tube stripes would go. The top stripe is twice as thick as the lower two, and the forward edges of the stripes are cut at angle, the top side being longer.
• The back of the helmet has 2 Grey cylinders/Canisters to each side of the Mohawk that the hoses attach to. The RH one has a Red stripe and the LH one has a Black square painted on it. They are topped with an aluminum washer greeblie.
• A rectangular “pill box” on the back of the Mohawk, painted Black or made of Black plastic. There is also a small Red square on the left side above the pill box.
  

• Helmet painted Light Grey as per the real prop - Armour and Chest box must match the helmet colour
• Red dot on the center bump of LH ear only, RH ear has no red dot on some promo photographs
• Interior of Soda siphon has a clip, that should be outlined in Red Paint
• Larger white bump just to rear of Right ear should be Red
• The Left helmet tusk should have a Red tip.
• White Rubber trim lining the bottom edge of helmet. Trim should be plain and semi glossy (no metal supported trim etc with ribbing or similar uneven surfaces)
• Interior of Helmet Painted Black.
• Half moon plastic disks behind the tusks, supported by an (as of yet) unrecognized white attachment.
• Bubble lenses.
• Two red square stickers on the top of the air canisters'.
• A red arrow at the tip of the trident.

• One piece light grey coverall/jumpsuit/flight suit with a front invisible zipper.
• Approximately 1.5" (38.1mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right velcro closure.
• A silver or white "imperial cog" emblem on a black background must be present on both shoulders. The cog should be 3" or 3.5" in diameter, and 1" from the shoulder seam.
  • If the costume includes armor that covers the cog emblems entirely, they may be omitted.
• On the left forearm there is a com-pad pocket approximately 5" (127mm) wide by 5.75" (146.05mm) tall with no flap and a 2.25" (57.15mm) window in it. (Size might vary to match your com-pad)
• On the left bicep, approximately 2" (50.8mm) below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves.
• The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves.
• The right sleeve has a cargo pocket approximateyl 6" (152mm) wide and 5.75" (146mm) on the bicep approx 2"(50.8mm) below the cog emblem. The pocket has a 2"(50.8mm) flap.
• 2 large chest pockets and 2 large front pockets below the belt without any zipper or flaps
• 2 leg pockets with flaps similar in proportion as the one on the right arm sleeve. Size may differ. (Usually the width of the front pockets equals the width of the leg pockets)
• Rank bars of any kind are not permitted.
• There are no leg pockets below the knees
  

• All pocket flaps to have chevron point.

• White chest and back armor, with large flat surface on the chest plate for the chest box.
• Circuit Board detail plate on rear of back armour, Black, White and Gold in colour. Grey angled greeblie in centre of the circuit board plate.
• Stormtrooper Style ribbed shoulder bridges connecting the front and back armour plates, in White.
  

• One small hole in each of the bottom corners, with black elastic joining the two.

• Snow Trooper style shoulder bells, rotated 180 Degrees, so the ridges of the shoulder bell go along the top.
  

• One small hole in each of the two corners, with thread looping to the outside. To make them look like they are stitched to the flightsuit.

• Rectangular box approx H7" x W7.25" x D2.5"
• The top of the Chest box is angled at approx 45 Degrees at the front, sides and rear forming an apex.
• Small angled extension on top of Chest box approx H0.75" x W2.00"
• The lower half of the Chest box is slightly shallower than the upper half.
• There are two cylindrical 'donut' extensions on each side of the box, one above the other, approx 2.35" (6 cm) in diameter.
• The upper donut is slightly wider than the lower one and has a hole for the hose that runs from helmet to Chest box.
• Custom circuit detail and greeblies on front of Chest box.
  

• Grey ribbed hose running from rear helmet canisters, over the shoulders and to the upper donut extensions on the Chest box.
• Hose is approx 1" in diameter.
  

• Gray or White leather gloves with a 4-6 inch cuff.
  • The brand name WELDAS SOFTOUCH Tig/Mig gloves appear to be the closest to the screen used gloves.
  • White Damascus D650 Gauntlets or White/Grey Fencing gloves are a perfectly acceptable alternative.
• The left glove cuff has a small commpad on it, approx 1.5" x 1.5" with the outer section slightly curved, and the inner section straight. The Commpad has a circular centre section about 3/4" high, and topped with a small silver disk, slightly smaller than the centre section in diameter.
  

• Clear Raised buttons in a row along the flat side of the commpad, four or five in total.
• Three raised parallel lines on the back of each hand.

• Gray webbing extending from the below front armor to the back armor under the crotch.
• Two loops wrap around each leg at the knees and are attached to the rest of the webbing at the crotch.
  

• White or light Gray “moon” boots. These are very hard to find without some kind of decoration on them, but they are out there.
• Snowtrooper style Canadian Muk Luks with ALL lace loops and 'D' rings removed may be used if moon boots are unavailable.
  

• White or Light Gray Moon boots, with no exterior markings or fasteners and a serrated sole.
• Tape around the top of boot.

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below.

• Red stripe on rear of Mohawk, approx 1.5" wide with the lower end coming to a point like an arrow. Can be painted or Red Electrical tape.
  

• Scratch built or high-end prop replica.
  

• Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
  

• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Correct style scope.
• Two power cylinders on the magazine.
• Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered).
• Popular commercially available toy Stormtrooper blasters have a total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side.
• Below this, you must grind off the lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes).