Description: Darth Vader: ROTS
Prefix: SL
Detachment: Sith Lord Detachment
Context: Star Wars Episode III: Revenge of the Sith

See also: ANH Vader, ANH Vader, ESB Vader

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

The Sith Lord Detachment defines additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, items listed under "For level two certification" are recommended features that will greatly improve the quality of the costume. These items are not required for 501st membership, but are highly recommended. Items listed under "For level three certification" are some of the highest level accuracy features for those who strive to be screen accurate. These items are also not required for 501st membership.

Also note that these two additional "certification levels" DO NOT correspond to the Advanced Standards program of the Sith Lord Detachment, and you are encouraged to visit the Sith Lord Detachment Forum for more information.

For 501st membership, only the requirements in black need to be met.

• Please note:
• Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Vader costume.
• All uses of the term silver in this document imply a machined aluminum look.
• Weathered or used aspects referred to in text, may not necessarily be depicted in photos.
• Click pictures to enlarge and view details; the text only highlights the key aspects of each component.

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .

• The dome is gloss black.
• There is neither an indentation nor a sharp point in the front center of the dome brow between the eyes of the mask.
  

• Recommended:
• The black paint used on the dome should match that used on the face mask and the chest armor.
• The brow of the dome should sit above the brows of the mask, but still contouring to them and allowing them to be revealed. The distance between the brows should not exceed one half of an inch.

• For Higher Accuracy:
• When viewed from the side, the dome should slope downward to the back in order to hide the back edge of the face mask neck.
• The mohawk should be rounded off and not as prominent as the mohawk on the ANH or ESB dome.

• The face mask is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal/dark grey.
• The face mask is asymmetrical.
• The lenses are slightly bubbled and tinted amber/dark grey.
• The lower mouth vent is triangular with rounded corners, and is roughly the size of the upper mouth vent.
• Large, black, diamond-shaped mesh is inset in both vents; additional black screen backing may be used to conceal the wearer’s face further.
• The tusks are metal, silver, and have pointed tips.
• The neck of the face mask rests on the chest armor.
• No skin is visible from any angle (under or through the mask).
  

• The black and grey paints used on the face mask should match that used on the dome and the chest armor.
• All features of the face mask (corners, edges, etc.) should have a sharp, crisp, and non-rounded look to them.
• No neck brace should be worn with the face mask.

• The eye sockets (areas bordering the lenses) should be painted black with the exception of the bridge of the nose.
• On the wearer's right, the grey section directly above the cheek should come to a sharp point on the side of the nose.
• The small lower sections of each cheek should be painted the opposite color of the corresponding cheek (wearer's right should be grey and the wearer's left should be black to contrast each cheek).
• The neck of the face mask should sit on the top end of the cape hook and just above the cape chain.

• The cape is made of black wool (or wool equivalent), three-quarters circle, floor length, and lined with black satin.
• The cape collar is black leather (or leather-like material), and is one and one half inches in width.
• The cape collar is held closed with a plastic rectangular/oblong linked dark grey cape chain.
• The cape collar is worn with the cape chain showing. The cape chain is positioned so that there is an equal length of chain on either side of the cape hook.
• There is no visible cape chain attachment device on the outside of the collar.
  

• The cape should be made of wool and the cape collar should be made of leather.
• The cape collar should partially overlap onto the neck of the face mask.
• The cape chain should be fastened in the vertical middle to the back side of the collar.
• The cape chain should not be fastened at the very end of the collar.

• The cape should be constructed in six panels.
• An odd number of cape chain links should show (more specifically five or seven) and it should be hooked to the cape hook on the chest armor via the center of the center link.
• The cape chain should contour to the curve of the neck of the face mask.

• The chest armor is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal/dark grey.
• The centermost raised section is grey, and all other raised sections are black.
• The shoulder bells are entirely black, and are each attached to the chest armor by two straps.
• There is a visible thin dull bronze cape hook on the vertical center line of the chest armor and it is located approximately one inch down from the top of the chest armor.

• Optional: The shoulder bells may be painted gunmetal/dark grey with black raised areas.
  

• The black and grey paints used on the chest armor should match that used on the dome and the face mask.
• The armor should be fitted with padding if necessary to ensure 1) the bottom of the armor does not rise up substantially off the chest, 2) the back of the chest armor does not stick out substantially through the cape, 3) the shoulder bells rest on and move with the arms, and 4) that the side of the chest armor and the top of the shoulder bells are almost flush.
• The shoulder bells should be solid black.

• The inner robe is made of the same material as the outside of the cape.
• It is ankle length, and worn over the codpiece, but under the chest armor and belt, and the front sides are one to two inches away from the chestbox.
• The side seams are open from the belt down.
• There are three pleats/darts on each side of the inner robe that run perpendicular to the belt. These pleats run from the belt to mid-chestbox level.
  

• The pleats/darts should start one inch from the front edge of the inner robe, and be spaced one inch apart from each other.
• The arm opening should be large enough for the body suit to be seen under the arm.

• The chestbox is square, satin black, and worn right below the chest armor.
• The black leather (or leather-like material) one inch wide straps are worn over the bodysuit, but under the chest armor and inner robe, and attach to the top and sides of the chestbox as shown.
• On the face of the chestbox there are two metal silver rods on each side.
• The rods have black brackets at the top, which contain upside down “U” shaped cutouts towards the inside at the bottom. They also mirror image one another.
• The brackets at the bottom are bronze in appearance and bear a finned design.
• Three vertically stacked metal silver coin slots on the wearer's right. These coin slots should blink red.
• A blue colored panel (upper) and a red colored panel (lower) are on the wearer’s left and each are mounted in a raised black area slightly larger than the panels themselves. These panels are unlit.
• Along the bottom are four rocker switches which are mounted in a raised black section at their base and are, from wearer's right to left, three grey and one red.
• Small metal silver switches appear between the outermost rockers and between the colored panels (three total).
• Exotic (not aurebesh) text appears below each of the coin slots.

• Optional: The blue and red colored panel may be lit.
  

• In terms of width, the chestbox should extend just past the center-most black sections of the chest armor.
• The straps should be made of leather.
• The coin slots should not blink too rapidly (strobe) nor stay lit for more than a couple of seconds.
• The surface surrounding the lit portion of the coinslots should be painted black.
• The blue and red colored panels should not be lit.
• Only the metal silver switches between the rockers should resemble each another. All should also have more of a chrome appearance as opposed to a machined aluminum appearance.

• The chestbox should be slightly weathered and the straps should look slightly aged.
• The bronze brackets should mirror image one another, or two (wearer’s) right ones can be used.
• The center of each coin slot should have square corners, and contains a semi-translucent red material.

• The body suit is made of black leather (or leather-like material), fitted to the wearer, and quilted in lines spaced one inch apart down the torso, arms, and legs.
• A one, two, or three piece suit is acceptable.
• An open mesh back is also acceptable for comfort and heat dispersal.
  

• The body suit should be made of leather.
• It should have a wrinkled/worn appearance.

• The body suit should be made of three pieces: A top with sleeves, a vest, and pants.

• The gloves are black leather (or leather-like material) and mid-forearm in length.
• The upper surface is quilted in lines spaced one inch apart which run parallel to the arm and start just behind the knuckles.
• The palm side has no quilted lines.
  

• The gloves should be made of leather (more specifically, it should match the leather of the body suit).
• The gloves should slightly flare out at the end opening on the outside (little finger side), but not on the inside (thumb side).

• The stitching on the gloves with the exception of the quilted lines is external.
• Excluding the thumb, there should be four pieces of material sewn together to make up each finger.

• The belt is made of black leather (or leather-like material) and is two inches wide.
• The lightsaber hook is silver, metal, and held to the backside of the belt on the wearer's left hip by two silver rivets.
• The buckle is metal, and roughly the same height as the belt boxes.
• The base layer of the buckle is black and rectangular.
• The second layer is silver and in the shape of a "D."
• There are five thin progressively smaller square edged cutouts (the smallest is still a rectangular cutout and is neither a circle nor a square) in a triangular formation on the wearer's right.
• The top layer of the buckle consists of a silver circle located on the center of the arc of the "D."

• Optional: The cutouts on the second layer of the buckle may have rounded edges.
  

• The belt should be made of leather.
• The belt should have incised lines one fourth of an inch from the top and bottom.
• The base layer of the buckle should not be gloss black.
• The cutouts on the second layer of the buckle should not have rounded edges.
• To the wearer’s left of the buckle, there should be a metallic stud/rivet on the horizontal centerline of the belt, no more than one inch away from the buckle.

• The belt should look aged, and the buckle should be weathered.

• The belt boxes are black and centered vertically on the belt one and one-half to two inches from the buckle, and mirror image one another.
• From the center outwards each box has:
• two opaque green rectangular light panels (bordered by a thin raised black section) above a half strip of braid-reinforced transparent hose inset in a rectangular cutout,
• a cylindrical opaque red light,
• and six silver posts with smooth sides (in two vertical columns of three).
• All lights are constantly lit.

• Optional: The red light may be a small domed opaque light.
• Optional: The red light may also be set in a chrome ring.
• Optional: The six silver posts may have grooved sides.
  

• The belt boxes should not be metal.
• The red light should be cylindrical and not domed.
• The red light should not be set in a chrome ring.

• The boxes should be slightly weathered.
• The backside of the boxes should be removable, not the front.

• The lightsaber should be a Master Replicas or custom built based on the Graflex 3-Cell flash handle to match the hilt used in ROTJ.
• The metal should have a machined aluminum appearance.
• The grips extend all the way to the middle section.
• A lever is not present on the box on the middle section.
• There are no connecting wires towards the top of the lightsaber.
• There are circular cutouts on the upper half of the lightsaber; some have a black object screwed into them bearing a hex shaped cutout in their center.
• There is a D-ring at the top and the bottom of the lightsaber.
• The lightsaber should only be required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws.

• Optional: Due to the availability of the ROTJ lightsaber, an ESB lightsaber may be used as a substitute (see the ESB CRL for those lightsaber requirements)
  

• The lightsaber should be capable of being belt worn with the emitter facing upwards (detachable blade or no blade).
• The lightsaber should be the ROTJ version.
• The lightsaber should be a 1:1 scale of the lightsaber used in the film.

• The lightsaber should be slightly weathered.

• The codpiece is a padded-construction and faced in black leather (or leather-like material).
• It is worn over the bodysuit, directly below the belt, and under the inner robe.
• It covers the front of the groin area and extends to the hips.
• In its center, there is a slight rectangular inset with rounded corners that is edged with rolled piping.
  

• The codpiece should be made of leather, have a wrinkled/worn appearance, and not be thicker than one inch.
• The area of the codpiece under the belt boxes should be no taller than one-third of the area under the belt buckle.
• A piece of leather with a smoother look (when compared to that of rest of the codpiece) should seemingly emerge from the backside at mid-height and gradually become more noticeable as it overlaps the bottom front of the codpiece.

• The shin guards are gloss black.
• Each shin guard covers the leg from the ankle to the knee, and at least one half the leg on the side.
• The knee is shaped like a cut diamond.
• Below the knee are six small square protrusions in a horizontal line (three to each side).
• On both sides of the raised area along the center, a long "U" shaped cutout starts at mid-armor height, and gradually increases in depth.
• The shin guards are attached by two straps that go around the boot.
  

• Both shin guards should slightly contour to each leg (right and left specific shin guards).
• The right shin guard is taller than the left.

• On both shin guards, the “U” shaped cutout on the wearer's left is longer.

• The boots are made of black leather (or leather-like material) with a medium gloss shine and are lace-less.
• They come to just below knee height, have a rounded toe, and a smooth textured appearance.
• There is no noticeable zipper in full costume.
• The strap at the top is not required; this area is covered in full costume and may or may not be there based on the style of boot.
  

• The boots should be made of leather.
• The sole should not exceed one and one-half inches in the heel or three-quarter of an inch in the front.
• Internal lifts (if used) should not be noticeable.