Description: Darth Vader: ESB
Prefix: SL
Detachment: Sith Lord Detachment
Context: Star Wars Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back

See also: ROTS Vader, ANH Vader, ROTJ Vader

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

The Sith Lord Detachment defines additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, items listed under "For level two certification" are recommended features that will greatly improve the quality of the costume. These items are not required for 501st membership, but are highly recommended. Items listed under "For level three certification" are some of the highest level accuracy features for those who strive to be screen accurate. These items are also not required for 501st membership.

Also note that these two additional "certification levels" DO NOT correspond to the Advanced Standards program of the Sith Lord Detachment, and you are encouraged to visit the Sith Lord Detachment Forum for more information.

For 501st membership, only the requirements in black need to be met.

• Please note:
• Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Vader costume.
• All uses of the term silver in this document imply a machined aluminum look.
• Weathered or used aspects referred to in text, may not necessarily be depicted in photos.
• Click pictures to enlarge and view details; the text only highlights the key aspects of each component.

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .

• The dome is gloss black (the dome should be glossier than shown in the picture-see the ROTJ helmet for a more accurate representation).
• There is a thumb-sized indentation in the front center of the dome brow, but there is no sharp point in the dome brow between the eyes of the mask.
• Allowed (but not recommended): The front center of the dome brow may be smooth and not contain an indentation.
  

• The black paint used on the dome should match that used on the face mask and the chest armor.
• The brow of the dome should sit level with the brows of the mask contouring to them and allowing them to be revealed.

• When viewed from the side, the bottom of the dome should slope downward to the back in order to hide the back edge of the face mask neck.
• The center ridge should be prominent from the rest of the dome and not rounded off.
• When the wearer looks up such that the lower tubes on the sides of the mask are horizontal, the very back of the dome should almost be touching or flush with the cape.

• The face mask is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal/dark grey.
• The face mask is asymmetrical.
• The lenses are slightly bubbled and tinted amber/dark grey (eyes are not visible behind lenses).
• The lower mouth vent is triangular with rounded corners, and is slightly smaller than the size of the upper mouth vent.
• Large, black, diamond-shaped mesh is inset in both vents; additional black screen backing may be used to conceal the wearer’s face further.
• The tusks are metal, silver, and have rounded (hemispherical) tips.
• There is not a substantial gap between the neck of the face mask and the top of the chest armor.
• No skin is visible from any angle (under or through the mask).
• Allowed (but not recommended): The tusks may have pointed (conical) tips.
  

• The lenses should be tinted amber with NO reddish hue.
• The black and grey paints used on the face mask should match that used on the dome and the chest armor.
• All features of the face mask (corners, edges, etc.) should have a sharp, crisp, and non-rounded look to them.
• No neck brace should be worn with the face mask.

• The eye sockets (areas bordering the lenses) should be painted black with the exception of the bridge of the nose.
• On the wearer's right, the grey section of paint directly above the cheek should come to a sharp point on the side of the nose.
• The small lower section of each cheek is painted black. To contrast the cheek on the wearer's left, and to match the cheek on the wearer's right.
• The wearer's right side of the mask is higher than the left side (asymmetrical).
• The middle of the tusks should be smaller than the ANH tusks and not appear as bulky (not shown in close up picture).
• The neck of the face mask should sit on the top part of the chest armor when the wearer looks slightly downward.

• The cape is made of black wool (or wool equivalent), three-quarters circle, floor length, and lined with black satin.
• The cape collar is black leather (or leather-like material), and is one inch to one and a quarter inches in width.
• The cape is held closed with a chain, or fastened/positioned to give the same effect as being held closed with a chain.
• The front of the cape collar is pulled under the neck of the mask so that the cape chain is not visible.

• Allowed (but not recommended): The satin lining may equally hang one to two inches below the entire wool component of the cape.
  

• The cape should be made of wool and the cape collar should be made of leather.
• The cape collar should not be visible in full costume when viewing the wearer from behind.
• The edges of the cape should drape over the front corners of the chest armor thus hiding the shoulder bells while the wearer's arms are at his/her side; the edges should not drape so far inward that they overlap onto the outermost black raised sections.

• The outside of the cape should be constructed in either four or six panels (sections of wool).

• The chest armor is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal/dark grey.
• The centermost raised section is grey, and all other raised sections are black.
• The shoulder bells are entirely black, and are each attached to the chest armor by two straps.
• There is no visible cape hook.
  

• The black and grey paints used on the chest armor should match that used on the dome and the face mask.
• The armor should be fitted with padding if necessary to ensure 1) the bottom of the armor does not rise up substantially off the chest, 2) the back of the chest armor does not stick out substantially through the cape, 3) the shoulder bells rest on and move with the arms, and 4) that the side of the chest armor and the top of the shoulder bells are almost flush.

• The inner robe is made of the same material as the outside of the cape.
• It is ankle length, and worn over the codpiece, but under the chest armor and belt, and the front sides are one to two inches away from the chestbox.
• There are three pleats/darts on each side of the inner robe that run perpendicular to the belt. These pleats/darts can run 1) from the belt to mid-chestbox level, which causes the material above to have three folds and continue up to or under the chest armor, or 2) from the belt to under the chest armor (shown in picture).

• Allowed: The side seams may be open from the belt down if the robe isn't full enough to properly drape in the front.
  

• The pleats/darts should start approximately one inch from the opening edge of the inner robe, and be spaced one inch apart from each other.
• The arm opening should be large enough for the body suit to be seen under the arm.

• The inner robe should be secured firmly by the belt so that the area between the belt and chest armor stays close to the wearer and is pulled taut.
• The opening of the inner robe should gradually get larger as it approaches the chest armor (the edges should not be completely vertical from the belt to under the chest armor).

• The chestbox is square, satin black, and worn right below the chest armor.
• The black leather (or leather-like material) one inch wide straps are worn over the bodysuit, but under the chest armor and inner robe, and attach to the top and sides of the chestbox as shown.
• The face of the chestbox consists of:
  • Two metal silver rods on each side that are machined as shown, and each are bracketed at the top and bottom.
    • The brackets at the top are black and each have a “U” shaped cutout on the upper inner half of the bracket.
    • The brackets at the bottom are bronze in appearance and bear a finned design.
  • Three vertically stacked metal silver coin slots on the wearer's right. These coin slots blink red.
  • A blue colored panel (upper) and a red colored panel (lower) are on the wearer’s left and each are mounted in a raised black area slightly larger than the panels themselves. These panels are unlit.
  • Along the bottom are four rocker switches which are mounted in a raised black section at their base and are, from wearer's right to left, three grey and one red.
  • Small metal silver switches are between each rocker and above each colored panel (five total).
  • Exotic (not aurebesh) text appears below each of the coin slots.

• • Allowed (but not recommended): The top black brackets may have upside down "U" shaped cutouts on the lower inner half of the bracket. The blue and red colored panels may be lit.
    

• In terms of width, the chestbox should extend just past the center-most black sections of the chest armor.
• The straps should be made of leather.
• The coin slots should not blink too rapidly (strobe) nor stay lit for more than a couple of seconds.
• None of the five metal silver switches should resemble each another. All should have more of a chrome appearance as opposed to a machined aluminum appearance.

• The chestbox should be slightly weathered and the straps should look slightly aged.
• The black bracket on the wearer’s right should be larger than the one on the wearer’s left.
• The bronze bracket on the wearer’s left should not bear the finned design on the outer half.
• The outer edge of each bracket should slightly protrude towards the top of the chestbox (mirror image each other).
• The center of each coin slot should have square corners, and contains a semi-translucent red material.

• The body suit is made of black leather (or leather-like material), fitted to the wearer, and quilted in lines spaced one inch apart down the torso, arms, and legs.
• A one, two, or three piece suit is acceptable.
• An open mesh back is also acceptable for comfort and heat dispersal.
  

• The body suit should be made of leather.
• It should have a wrinkled/worn appearance.

• The body suit should be made of three pieces: A top with only the sleeves quilted, a vest, and pants.

• The gloves are black leather (or leather-like material) and mid-forearm length.
• The upper surface is quilted in lines spaced approximately one inch apart which run parallel to the arm and start just behind the knuckles.
• The palm side has no quilted lines.
  

• The gloves should be made of leather (more specifically, it should match the leather of the body suit).
• The gloves should slightly flare out at the end opening on the outside (little finger side), but not on the inside (thumb side).

• Picture does not currently reflect the following.
• The quilted lines should be very fine.
• There should be six sections created by the quilted lines on the upper surface; they are not of uniform width (the outer sections are smaller than the middle sections).
• The quilted lines in the flared section on the outside should form a "V".
• The stitching on the gloves, with the exception of the quilted lines, should be external.
• The thumb should be made of only two pieces of material. The outer fingers should be made of three pieces, while the middle two fingers should be made of four pieces.

• The belt is made of black leather (or leather-like material) and is approximately two and a quarter inches wide.
• The lightsaber hook is silver, metal, and held to the backside of the belt by two silver rivets (which are located towards the bottom of the belt). The lightsaber hook is mounted slightly forward of the wearer's left hip.
• Note: The stud appearing to the wearer's left of the buckle shown in this picture should not be present.

• The buckle is metal, and is slightly smaller than the belt boxes in terms of height.
• The base layer of the buckle is black and rectangular.
• The second layer is silver and in the shape of a "D."
• There are five thin progressively smaller squared edge cutouts (the smallest is a circle) in a triangular formation on the wearer's right.
• The top layer of the buckle consists of a silver circle located on the center of the arc of the "D."

• Optional: The cutouts on the second layer of the buckle may have rounded edges. The smallest cutout may also be a square.
  

• The belt should be made of leather.
• The belt should have incised lines one eighth of an inch from the top and bottom.
• The base layer of the buckle should not be gloss black.

• The belt should look aged, and the buckle should be weathered.
• The belt should have two metallic studs/bolts partially visible under the wearer's left of the belt buckle when viewed from the wearer's left side (not a prominent stud/bolt as seen on the ROTJ belt, as the buckle style used to close the belt must have changed from ANH/ESB to ROTJ).

• The belt boxes are black and centered vertically on the belt one and one-half to two inches from the buckle, and mirror image one another.
• Wearer's right box is shown.
• The back side of each box is removable and meets flush with the rest of the box.
• From the center outwards each box has:
  • two opaque green rectangular light panels (bordered by a thin raised black section) above a half strip of braid-reinforced transparent hose inset in a rectangular cutout,
  • a cylindrical opaque red light set in a very small chrome ring (bezel),
  • and six silver posts with smooth, not knurled, sides (not shown in picture) in two vertical columns of three.
  • All lights are constantly lit.

• Allowed (but not recommended): The red light may be a small domed opaque light, and may also be set in very noticeable chrome bezel. The red light may also not contain any bezel at the base. The six silver posts may have knurled sides.
  

• The belt boxes should be metal.

• The belt boxes should be slightly weathered.
• The belt box should be "tapered": the back face should be larger than the front face.
• Clarification: The chrome bezel is very thin and extends one-eighth to one-fourth the height of the red light, and therefore is barely noticeable when the red light is on, giving the illusion that it is not there.

• The lightsaber should be a Master Replicas or custom built based on the MPP Microflash or the Heiland Synchronar 3-Cell flash handle to match the hilt used in ESB.
• The metal has a chrome appearance.
• The grips extend all the way to the middle section.
• A lever is not present on the box on the middle section.
• The side bars of the box on the middle section are black.
• There are connecting wires towards the top of the lightsaber.

• The lightsaber should only be required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws.
  

• The lightsaber should be capable of being belt worn with the emitter facing upwards (detachable blade or no blade).
• The lightsaber should be a 1:1 scale of the lightsaber used in the film.

• The lightsaber should be slightly weathered.

• The codpiece is a padded-construction and faced in black leather (or leather-like material).
• It is worn over the bodysuit, directly below the belt, and under the inner robe.
• It covers the front of the groin area and extends to the hips.
• In its center, there is a slight rectangular inset with rounded corners that is edged with rolled piping.
  

• The codpiece should be made of leather, have a wrinkled/worn appearance, and not be thicker than one inch.
• The area of the codpiece under the belt boxes should be no taller than one-third of the area under the belt buckle.
• A piece of leather with a smoother look (when compared to that of rest of the codpiece) should seemingly emerge from the backside at mid-height and gradually become more noticeable as it overlaps the bottom front of the codpiece.

• The shin guards are gloss black.
• Each shin guard covers the leg from the ankle to the knee, and at least one half the leg when viewed from the side.
• The knee is shaped like a cut diamond.
• Below the knee are six small square protrusions in a horizontal line (three on each side).
• On both sides of the raised area along the center, a long "U" shaped cutout starts at mid-armor height, and gradually increases in depth.
• The shin guards are attached by two straps that go around the boot.
  

• Both shin guards should slightly contour to each leg (right and left specific shin guards).
• The right shin guard is taller than the left.

• On both shin guards, the “U” shaped cutout on the wearer's left is longer.

• The boots are made of black leather (or leather-like material) with a medium gloss shine and are lace-less.
• They come to just below knee height, have a rounded toe, and a smooth textured appearance.
• There is no noticeable zipper in full costume.
• The sole of the front does not exceed one inch in thickness and the heel does not exceed two inches in thickness.
• Note: The strap/buckle pictured at the top is not required; this area is covered in full costume and may or may not be there based on the style of boot.
  

• The boots should be made of leather.
• The sole should not exceed one and one-half inches in the heel or three-quarter of an inch in the front.
• Internal lifts (if used) should not be noticeable.