Description: Darth Vader: ANH
Prefix: SL
Detachment: Sith Lord Detachment
Context: Star Wars Episode IV: A New Hope

See also: ROTS Vader, ESB Vader, ROTJ Vader

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

The Sith Lord Detachment defines additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, items listed under "For level two certification" are recommended features that will greatly improve the quality of the costume. These items are not required for 501st membership, but are highly recommended. Items listed under "For level three certification" are some of the highest level accuracy features for those who strive to be screen accurate. These items are also not required for 501st membership.

Also note that these two additional "certification levels" DO NOT correspond to the Advanced Standards program of the Sith Lord Detachment, and you are encouraged to visit the Sith Lord Detachment Forum for more information.

For 501st membership, only the requirements in black need to be met.

• Please note:
• Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Vader costume.
• All uses of the term silver in this document imply a machined aluminum look.
• Weathered or used aspects referred to in text, may not necessarily be depicted in photos.
• Click pictures to enlarge and view details; the text only highlights the key aspects of each component.

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .

• The dome is a polished satin black, but doesn't have an overall dull or high gloss appearance.
• There is a "Y" shaped indentation in the front center of the dome brow above where it comes to a sharp point between the eyes of the mask.
  

• The black paint used on the dome should match that used on the face mask and the chest armor.
• The dome should be weathered to achieve the non-uniform semi-gloss look.
• The brow of the dome should sit very close to the mask covering the brows of the mask.
• The brow should also sit such that the sharp point on the dome brow is even with or slightly below the top notch on the bridge of the mask’s nose.

• When viewed from the side, the bottom of the dome should slope downward to the back in order to almost hide the back edge of the face mask neck. The back edge may show as seen on one side due to the asymmetrical nature of the mask and the dome being mounted so far forward on the mask.
• The center ridge should be prominent from the rest of the dome and not rounded off.
• When the wearer looks up such that the lower tubes on the sides of the mask are horizontal or slightly pointing upward, the very back of the dome should almost be touching or flush with the cape.

• The face mask is painted in an alternating pattern of polished satin black (not having an overall dull or high gloss appearance) and non-gloss gunmetal/dark grey (the blueish tint in both the face mask and dome pictures is due to the lighting only and is not present on the actual mask).
• The face mask is asymmetrical.
• The lenses are slightly bubbled and tinted amber/dark grey (eyes are not visible behind lenses).
• The lower mouth vent is triangular with sharp corners, and is roughly half the size of the upper mouth vent.
• Large, black, diamond-shaped mesh is inset in both vents; additional black screen backing may be used to conceal the wearer’s face further.
• The tusks are metal, silver, and have rounded (hemispherical) tips.
• There is not a substantial gap between the neck of the face mask and the top of the chest armor.
• No skin is visible from any angle (under or through the mask).
• No neck brace is worn with the face mask.
  

• The lenses should be tinted amber with a reddish hue.
• The black and grey paints used on the face mask should match that used on the dome and the chest armor.
• The face mask should be weathered to achieve the non-uniform semi-gloss look on the black parts.
• There should be no black section of paint starting at the cheek on the wearer's left side running to the back of the mask as seen on the ESB or ROTJ face mask.
• All features of the face mask (corners, edges, etc.) should have a sharp, crisp, and non-rounded look to them.
• The tusk on the wearer's right should be substantially weathered black.

• Brush strokes should be slightly noticeable in the grey sections on the face mask to partially show the black underneath.
• The eye sockets (areas bordering the lenses) should be painted black with the exception of the bridge of the nose.
• On the wearer's right, the grey section of paint directly above the cheek should come to a sharp point on the side of the nose.
• The small lower section of the wearer's left cheek should be painted black (to contrast the cheek) while the section on the wearer's right may be partially painted grey.
• The wearer's right side of the mask is higher than the left side (asymmetrical).
• The neck of the face mask should sit on the top part of the chest armor when the wearer looks slightly downward.

• The cape is made of black wool (or wool equivalent), three-quarters circle, floor length, and lined with black satin.
• The cape collar is black leather (or leather-like material), and is one inch to one and a quarter inches in width.
• The cape is held closed with a chain, or fastened/positioned to give the same effect as being held closed with a chain.
• The front of the cape collar is pulled under the neck of the mask so that the cape chain is not visible.

• Optional: The cape chain may rest across the bottom of the neck of the mask with 4 chain links showing. If this option is chosen, the chain must be a plastic rectangular/oblong linked dark grey chain, which is attached to the underside of the collar with no visible attachment device showing on the collar when in full costume.
  

• The cape should be made of wool and the cape collar should be made of leather.
• The cape collar should not be visible in full costume when viewing the wearer from behind.
• The edges of the cape should drape over the front corners of the chest armor thus hiding the shoulder bells while the wearer's arms are at his/her side; the edges should not drape so far inward that they overlap onto the outermost raised sections.

• The outside of the cape should be constructed in either four or six panels (sections of wool).

• The chest armor is painted in satin black and non-gloss gunmetal/dark grey.
• The centermost raised section is grey, and the two adjacent raised sections are black.
• The rest of the chest armor is grey.
• The shoulder bells are gunmetal grey with black raised sections, and are each attached to the chest armor by two straps.
• There is no visible cape hook.

• Optional: The two raised sections towards the sides of the chest armor may be painted black.
  

• The black and grey paints used on the chest armor should match that used on the dome and the face mask.
• The chest armor should be weathered to achieve the non-uniform semi-gloss look on the black parts and give it a heavily worn/used look all over.
• The armor should be fitted with padding if necessary to ensure 1) the bottom of the armor does not rise up substantially off the chest, 2) the back of the chest armor does not stick out substantially through the cape, 3) the shoulder bells rest on and move with the arms, and 4) that the side of the chest armor and the top of the shoulder bells are almost flush.

• Brush strokes should be slightly noticeable in the grey sections of the chest armor to partially show the black underneath.

• The inner robe is made of the same material as the outside of the cape.
• It is ankle length, and worn over the chest armor and codpiece, but under the belt, and the front sides are almost touching or no more than an inch away from the chestbox.
• The side seams are open from the belt down.
• There are no pleats/darts on the sides of the inner robe.

• Optional: The side seams may be sewn from the belt down.
  

• The arm opening should be large enough for the body suit to be seen under the arm.

• The inner robe should be secured firmly by the belt so that the area between the belt and chest armor stays close to the wearer (pulled taut) and does not droop.
• The opening of the inner robe should not gradually get larger as it approaches the chest armor (the edges should be completely vertical from the belt to under the chest armor.

• The chestbox is square, satin black, and worn right below the chest armor.
• The black leather (or leather-like material) one inch wide straps are worn over the bodysuit, but under the chest armor and inner robe, and attach to the top and sides of the chestbox as shown.
• The face of the chestbox consists of:
  • Two metal silver rods on each side that are machined as shown. They are not bracketed by anything on the top and bottom.
  • Three vertically stacked metal silver coin slots on the wearer's right.
  • A faded/translucent green colored panel (upper) and a red colored panel (lower) are on the wearer’s left.
  • Along the bottom are four rocker switches which are mounted individually and are, from wearer's right to left, white and three grey.
  • There are no small metal silver switches or any text anywhere on the chestbox.
  • There are no lighting effects.

• Optional: There may be a silver rivet no more than one-half inch from the chestbox on each strap.
  

• In terms of width, the chestbox should extend just past the center-most black sections of the chest armor.
• The straps should be made of leather.

• The chestbox should be weathered and the straps should look slightly aged.
• The center of each coin slot should have square corners, and be hollow.
• The two center-most rocker switches should be mounted slightly higher than the outer two (no more than one eighth of an inch.

• The body suit is made of black leather (or leather-like material), fitted to the wearer, and quilted in lines spaced one inch apart down the torso, arms, and legs.
• A one, two, or three piece suit is acceptable.
• An open mesh back is also acceptable for comfort and heat dispersal.
  

• The body suit should be made of leather.
• It should have a wrinkled/worn appearance.

• The body suit should be made of three pieces: A top with only the sleeves quilted, a vest, and pants.

• The gloves are black leather (or leather-like material) and mid-forearm length.
• The upper surface is quilted in lines spaced approximately one inch apart which run perpendicular to the arm and start just behind the knuckles.
• The palm side has no quilted lines.
  

• The gloves should be made of leather (more specifically, it should match the leather of the body suit).
• The sides of the gloves should flare out slightly, but gradually, at the end opening.

• There should be approximately thirteen sections created by the quilted lines on the upper surface, but definitely no more than thirteen.
• The stitching on the gloves, with the exception of the quilted lines, should be external.
• The thumb should be made of only two pieces of material. The outer fingers should be made of three pieces, while the middle two fingers should be made of four pieces.

• The belt is made of black leather (or leather-like material) and is approximately two and a quarter inches wide.
• The lightsaber hook is silver, metal, and held to the backside of the belt by two silver rivets (which are located towards the bottom of the belt). The lightsaber hook is mounted slightly forward of the wearer's left hip.

• The buckle is metal, and is slightly larger than the belt boxes in terms of height (buckle size is the same as ESB and ROTJ).
• The base layer of the buckle is black and rectangular.
• The second layer is silver and in the shape of a "D."
• There are five thin progressively smaller squared edge cutouts (the smallest is a circle) in a triangular formation on the wearer's right.
• The top layer of the buckle consists of a silver circle located on the center of the arc of the "D."

• Optional: The cutouts on the second layer of the buckle may have rounded edges. The smallest cutout may also be a square.
  

• The belt should be made of leather.
• The belt should have incised lines one eighth of an inch from the top and bottom.
• The base layer of the buckle should not be gloss black.

• The belt should look aged, and the buckle should be weathered.
• The belt should have two metallic studs/bolts partially visible under the wearer's left of the belt buckle when viewed from the wearer's left side (not a prominent stud/bolt as seen on the ROTJ belt, as the buckle style used to close the belt must have changed from ANH/ESB to ROTJ).

• The belt boxes are black and centered vertically on the belt one-half to one inch from the buckle, and mirror image one another.
• Wearer's left box is shown.
• From the center outwards each box has:
  • two green square light panels above a rectangular inset containing silver rectangular-shaped metal screen,
  • a domed red pilot light set in a chrome ring,
  • and six silver posts with smooth sides (in two vertical columns of three) set atop of red washers.
  • All lights are constantly lit.
    

• The belt boxes should be metal.
• The light panels should be faceted and should not be bordered by a raised black section.
• The domed red pilot light should be opaque.

• The boxes should be substantially weathered.
• The front of each box should be a lid that fits over the box and secured by screws on the sides.

• The lightsaber should be a Master Replicas or custom built based on the MPP Microflash or the Heiland Synchronar 3-Cell flash handle to match the hilt used in ANH.
• The metal has a chrome appearance.
• The grips do not extend all the way to the middle section.
• A lever is present on the box on the middle section.
• The side bars of the box have a chrome appearance.
• There are no connecting wires towards the top of the lightsaber.

• The lightsaber should only be required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws.
  

• The lightsaber should be capable of being belt worn with the emitter facing upwards (detachable blade or no blade).
• The lightsaber should be a 1:1 scale of the lightsaber used in the film.

• The lightsaber should be weathered.

• The codpiece is a padded-construction and faced in black leather (or leather-like material).
• It is worn over the bodysuit, directly below the belt, and under the inner robe.
• It covers the front of the groin area and extends to the hips.
• In its center, there is a slight rectangular inset with rounded corners that is edged with rolled piping.
  

• The codpiece should be made of leather, have a wrinkled/worn appearance, and not be thicker than one inch.
• The area of the codpiece under the belt boxes should be no taller than one-third of the area under the belt buckle.

• The shin guards are satin black (not shown in photo).
• Each shin guard covers the leg from the ankle to the knee, and at least one half the leg when viewed from the side.
• The knee is shaped like a cut diamond.
• Below the knee are six small square protrusions in a horizontal line (three on each side).
• On both sides of the raised area along the center, a long "U" shaped cutout starts at mid-armor height, and gradually increases in depth.
• The shin guards are attached by two straps that go around the boot.

• Allowed (but not recommended): The shin guards may be gloss black.
  

• The shin guards should be weathered to achieve the non-uniform semi-gloss look.
• Both shin guards should slightly contour to each leg (right and left specific shin guards).
• The right shin guard is taller than the left.

• On both shin guards, the “U” shaped cutout on the wearer's left is longer.

• The boots are made of black leather (or leather-like material) with a medium gloss shine and are lace-less.
• They come to just below knee height, have a rounded toe, and a smooth textured appearance.
• There is no noticeable zipper in full costume.
• Note: The strap/buckle at the top is not required; this area is covered in full costume and may or may not be there based on the style of boot.
  

• The boots should be made of leather.
• The sole should not exceed one and one-half inches in the heel or three-quarter of an inch in the front.
• Internal lifts (if used) should not be noticeable.