Description: 212th Utapau Clone Shadow Trooper
Prefix: CX
Detachment: Clone Trooper Detachment
Context: The Clone Wars Comics
Clone shadow troopers were an elite cadre of clone troopers, devised by Director Armand Isard of Republic Intelligence during the Clone Wars. Since the numbers of the Advanced Recon Commandos were dwindling, Isard created the shadow troopers as a reconnaissance unit, who, with the benefit of greatly modified and expensive armor, could operate covertly and undercover. Using magseals installed in their armor, shadow troopers could attach plates to themselves that could pass them off as mercenaries belonging to certain factions. With that advantage, they could infiltrate facilities and gather intelligence with ease.

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

In the page below, items listed in blue are recommended features that will improve the quality of the costume. Items listed in red are intended to further enhance the finished costume.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

IMPORTANT: Effective June 1 2012, the 501st will no longer be approving realistic interpretations of Clone Wars CG characters. The armor sculpt must match the character being recreated. See this thread at clonetroopers.net for the differences between the sculpts.

• This CRL is a work in progress.
• While this costume must be approved by the Legion Membership Officer, submissions should still go to the local GML, who will post the application in the appropriate section of the Legion forum.
• If you have this costume and would like to assist with this CRL, please contact your detachment leader!
• Please note that the use of the word "should" below does not indicate that a requirement is optional. All instances of should will be replaced with must as this guide is completed.

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .

• Episode 3 style Clone Helmet - Fanmade bucket. Some "name brand" helmets may be unacceptable.
• Visor - Red Visor.
• Helmet mohawk on dome.
• Vertical kill stripes on each side of helmet cheeks that are dark blue in color.
• Helmet frown is charcoal grey in color. Wire or plastic mesh is utilized inside the helmet to cover the open pieces of the frown.
• Primer grey stripe around back of dome.
• Ear caps are painted a primer gray.
  • The mowhawk will have a primer gray wrap. The wrap will come to a point center just above the brow trim. The rear will be squared off approximately ¼ inch above the grey indent line. At its widest the wrap is approximately 2 inches wide at center point on both sides.
    

• Helmet has the appearance of a neck ring.

• Helmet has an enclosed complete neck ring that seals the helmet to the neck.

• Neck seal to be gray in color with vertical ribbing or being smooth in appearance. No logos or labels are to be visible. If the seal is not incorporated as part of the undersuit, a balaclava or other similar covering is acceptable.
  

• Gray non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos.
  

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
  • A soft edged triangular shape should be placed on the top of the shoulders. This should be a line continuation of the chest plate. These triangles should be painted primer gray.
• Shoulders should be tear drop in shape with all rounded edges.
  

• Shoulder bells should not be symmetrical. The Shoulder bells should slightly curve back at the bottom of the shoulder.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
  • The arms should be painted from the lower inside corner of the tricep to the front inside area of the bicep in a half circle pattern. The top of the circle should be about half way into center of the outside of the upper arm. These should be colored primer gray, but the under edges should remain black.
• Should have a dimple on the lower area of the back of the arm. The outside of the bicep should have a hard line edge at the front that turns in. The inside of the upper arm should be rounded.
  

• Armor should be seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled should be shown.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
• There are two elbows. On each elbow on the outside of the body near the connection point of the elbow strap there should be detail slots that look like an equal symbol on both elbow pieces.
• Both elbows have strapping. The straps should have a raised detail line at the top and bottom of the strap.
  

• Elbows should be mirror images of each other with a notched area on the outside of the elbow above the detail marks.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
• Both left and right forearms should be mirror images of each other.
• Right forearm should have a compad that has 8 small buttons,1 Large main button, and 1 slightly smaller rectanular button.
• Forearm tops should have a flattened triangular area that have a ridge that comes to a point at the top of the forearm.
  

• Compad has detail antenna on its left.

• Instead of a hard edge the top of the forearm has a bone ridge.
• Armor should be seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled should be shown.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
• Hand plates are mirror images of each other.
• Hand plates have a top curving ridge that come to a point over the index or middle finger just past the main knuckle of the hand.
  

• Gray over the wrist gloves made of leather, nylon, or other low pile fabrics. Gloves must not show any labels or logos once the armor is on and cover any exposed skin.
  

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
  • Drawing down about 4 – 5 inches down the shoulder harnesses a triangular shape primer gray blocking will be placed. The triangle comes to a point on the center of the chest approximately 1 – 2 inches above the pectoral meeting line. The rolled edges should remain white. The sides of the armor are also blocked orange. Starting about 2 inches into the ribcage return curve, it hard lines to the corner of the chest and soft curves into the armpit
• Two detail slots on right breast.
• Chest and back plate should match together at the sides with no gap, just a seam line.
• Shoulder straps should be placed underneath the chest to connect to the back.
  

• Shoulder straps should be slotted into the chest into the detail ridges of the top connection points.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
  • At about the lower corner of the rear tank, a soft curve should be placed to about 3 inches into the lower tank lines. From there a hard line curve to 2 inches into the small of the back should be placed. This area should be blocked primer gray.
• Rear tank has detailed area that contains 4 circles. Under the circles at the left side of the back there should be two parallel lines and the the right of the back there should a be a squared detail.
• Chest and back plate should match together at the sides with no gap, just a seam line.
• Shoulder straps should be placed underneath the chest to connect to the back.
  

• Shoulder straps should be slotted into the Back into the detail ridges of the top connection points.
• Highly detailed resin insert should replace softer details.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
• Four 1/4" diameter holes per side on indents of ab plate, eight holes total.
• Ab section should wrap around the wearers body and be sealed at the sides or at the back.
• Ab section should be completely contained under the chest and back armor.
  

• Ab section should be seamless at the sides and close in the back. A detail plate should cover the seam line and hide all work.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
• Cod and Posterior armor should connect at the hips.
  • Cod piece - A Primer panel should be painted on starting at the top of the cup line, and squaring off to the belt
    

• Hips should be connected together via a snap or screw.

• Hips should be connected via a snap with the correct detailed shape of the armor at the connection point.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
  • The inner details of the front of the belt should be painted primer gray. There should be three slots for this
• Ammo Belt with boxes and detonator.
• Detonator is centered on the back of belt.
• 8 boxes total, 4 on each side of abdomen and attached to the belt.
  

• Belt Boxes should be notched and fitted flush with the details of the belt.
• Left Rear belt box should have two square buttons in the top left corner and and equal symbol detail at the bottom right.
• Right Rear belt box should have a bar with two small cylinders centered with and equal symbol detail on the bottom left.
• From the rear two belt boxes the belt should have a ribbed detailed appearance.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
  • The top half of the thighs are painted gray on a diagonal with the lower end of the angle on the inside of the thighs.
• Front of thigh armor should have a flat triangular area near the knee. From the top of the triangle a ridge line should go up the front of the thigh to the top.
• Rear of the thigh should have an indention.
  

• Outside of lower portion of the thighs should come to a point and inner lower end should be rounded.
• Armor should be seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled should be shown.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
  • Each knee is cut in half on the diagonal and painted primer gray. The diagonal starts in upper inside and end on the lower outside of the knee.
• Knees should wrap around the front of the leg. From top center a raised detail line should be present.
• Knees should be strapped to the leg via a black strap with a raised center area that wraps around the leg and connects on both sides of the Knee.
  

• Center strap should be primer gray.
• Connection between the knee and the strapping should have a detail clip.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin black.
  • Starting at the inside calf muscle in a diagonal wrap, the lower portion of the lower legs should be painted primer gray.
• Lower Legs are mirror images of each other. The front of the armor should have a triangular detail at the top of the leg and a hard ridge line down the front of the shin.
• Back of the lower legs should have an indentation just under the calf the follow down to the ankle.
• Calf can have an access area on the inside of the leg. The outside of the calf should be closed.
  

• Calves should be seamless and have a trap door access through the indent in the rear of the lower leg.

• black, ankle high or tall enough to cover the ankle and eliminate any black undersuit visible at the ankle area in armor. Boots must be lace-less and have flat soles. The boots have armor detail to include a natural seam at the toe and a strap that goes over the top of the foot with two protruding disks at each side of the strap. There should be no markings or labels from the shoe makers.
  

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below.