Description: Clone Shock Trooper
Prefix: CT
Detachment: Clone Trooper Detachment
Context: Episode III: Revenge of the Sith
Clone shock troopers were specialist clone troopers introduced during Clone Wars to increase security and order on Coruscant in the form of the Coruscant Guard. Though a military force, they served mostly in a police capacity or as body guards for diplomats and other dignitaries including the Supreme Chancellor. Throughout the Clone Wars, they were distinguished by red markings all over their helmet and body armor. This was carried into the Imperial era where Coruscant Guard became well known by its all crimson body armor.

The 501st approval requirements are listed in black.

In the page below, items listed in blue are recommended features that will improve the quality of the costume. Items listed in red are intended to further enhance the finished costume.

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

IMPORTANT: Effective June 1 2012, the 501st will no longer be approving realistic interpretations of Clone Wars CG characters. The armor sculpt must match the character being recreated. See this thread at clonetroopers.net for the differences between the sculpts.

• This CRL is a work in progress. This costume may be approved by GMLs, but additional research should be done until the CRL is complete.
• If you have this costume and would like to assist with this CRL, please contact your detachment leader!
• Please note that the use of the word "should" below does not indicate that a requirement is optional. All instances of should will be replaced with must as this guide is completed.

The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval .

• Episode 3 style Clone Helmet - Fanmade bucket. Some "name brand" helmets may be unacceptable.
• Visor - Black Visor.
• Helmet mohawk on dome is painted red.
• inside cheeks and rear head indents are painted red.
• The nose from tube to tube under the frown is painted red.
• There are 12 vertical "Kill" stripes over the brow trim that that painted red and evenly spaced.
• The airrator tubes on the fave have 8 horizontal red stripes evenly spaced.
• Vertical kill stripes on each side of helmet cheeks that are dark blue in color.
• Helmet frown is charcoal gray in color. Wire or plastic mesh is utilized inside the helmet to cover the open pieces of the frown.
• Primer gray stripe around back of dome.
• Ear caps are painted a dark gray.
  

• Helmet has the appearance of a neck ring.

• Helmet has an enclosed complete neck ring that seals the helmet to the neck.

• Neck seal to be black in color with vertical ribbing or being smooth in appearance. No logos or labels are to be visible. If the seal is not incorporated as part of the under suit, a balaclava or other similar covering is acceptable.
  

• Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos.
  

• Armor should be painted red.
• Shoulders should be tear drop in shape with all rounded edges.
  

• Shoulder bells should not be symmetrical. The Shoulder bells should slightly curve back at the bottom of the shoulder.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white.
  • Two 3/4 inch red stripes spaced approximately half an inch apart must encircle the lower part of the upper arm.
• Should have a dimple on the lower area of the back of the arm. The outside of the bicep should have a hard line edge at the front that turns in. The inside of the upper arm should be rounded.
• Armor should be seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled should be shown.
  

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white
• There are two elbows. On each elbow on the outside of the body near the connection point of the elbow strap there should be detail slots that look like an equal symbol on both elbow pieces.
• Both elbows have strapping. The straps should have a raised detail line at the top and bottom of the strap.
  

• Elbows should be mirror images of each other with a notched area on the outside of the elbow above the detail marks.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white.
• Both left and right forearms should be mirror images of each other.
• Right forearm should have a compad that has 8 small buttons,1 Large main button, and 1 slightly smaller rectanular button.
• Forearm tops should have a flattened triangular area that have a ridge that comes to a point at the top of the forearm.
• Armor should be seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled should be shown.
  

• Compad has detail antenna on its left.

• Instead of a hard edge the top of the forearm has a bone ridge.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white
• Hand plates are mirror images of each other.
• Hand plates have a top curving ridge that come to a point over the index or middle finger just past the main knuckle of the hand.
  

• Black over the wrist gloves made of leather, nylon, or other low pile fabrics. Gloves must not show any labels or logos once the armor is on and cover any exposed skin.
  

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white.
  • Top of the chest must be painted red. The red stops at all the return edges.
• Two detail slots on right breast.
• Chest and back plate should match together at the sides with no gap, just a seam line.
• Shoulder straps should be placed underneath the chest to connect to the back.
  

• Shoulder straps should be slotted into the chest into the detail ridges of the top connection points.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white.
• Rear tank has detailed area that contains 4 circles. Under the circles at the left side of the back there should be two parallel lines and the the right of the back there should a be a squared detail.
• Chest and back plate should match together at the sides with no gap, just a seam line.
• Shoulder straps should be placed underneath the chest to connect to the back.
  

• Shoulder straps should be slotted into the Back into the detail ridges of the top connection points.
• Highly detailed resin insert should replace softer details.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white.
• Four 1/4" diameter holes per side on indents of ab plate, eight holes total.
• Ab section should wrap around the wearers body and be sealed at the sides or at the back.
• Ab section should be completely contained under the chest and back armor.
  

• Ab section should be seamless at the sides and close in the back. A detail plate should cover the seam line and hide all work.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white.
• Cod and Posterior armor should connect at the hips.
  

• Hips should be connected together via a snap or screw.

• Hips should be connected via a snap with the correct detailed shape of the armor at the connection point.

• Armor should be painted red.
• Ammo Belt with boxes and detonator.
• Detonator is centered on the back of belt.
• 8 boxes total, 4 on each side of abdomen and attached to the belt.
  

• Belt Boxes should be notched and fitted flush with the details of the belt.
• Left Rear belt box should have two square buttons in the top left corner and and equal symbol detail at the bottom right.
• Right Rear belt box should have a bar with two small cylinders centered with and equal symbol detail on the bottom left.
• From the rear two belt boxes the belt should have a ribbed detailed appearance.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white.
  • A 1 inch wide red stripe should run the length of the outside thigh just forward of center. From that vertical line two 2 inch red strips spaced on inch apart should end at the front thigh ridge.
• Front of thigh armor should have a flat triangular area near the knee. From the top of the triangle a ridge line should go up the front of the thigh to the top.
• Rear of the thigh should have an indention.
• Armor should be seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled should be shown.
  

• Outside of lower portion of the thighs should come to a point and inner lower end should be rounded.

• Armor should be painted matte or satin white.
• Knees should wrap around the front of the leg. From top center a raised detail line should be present.
• Knees should be strapped to the leg via a white strap with a raised center area that wraps around the leg and connects on both sides of the Knee.
  

• Center strap should be primer gray.
• Connection between the knee and the strapping should have a detail clip.

• Armor should be painted red.
• Lower Legs are mirror images of each other. The front of the armor should have a triangular detail at the top of the leg and a hard ridge line down the front of the shin.
• Back of the lower legs should have an indentation just under the calf the follow down to the ankle.
• Calf can have an access area on the inside of the leg. The outside of the calf should be closed.
  

• Calves should be seamless and have a trap door access through the indent in the rear of the lower leg.

• Red, ankle high or tall enough to cover the ankle and eliminate any black under suit visible at the ankle area in armor. Boots must be lace-less and have flat soles. The boots have armor detail to include a natural seam at the toe and a strap that goes over the top of the foot with two protruding disks at each side of the strap. There should be no markings or labels from the shoe makers. Boot soles should be primer gray.
  

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines below.